What You Need to Know Before You Start
A title transfer is the legal document that moves ownership of a vehicle from one person to another. You fill it out when you buy or sell a car, truck, or motorcycle. The form itself is usually called an "Application for Title" or "Certificate of Title" — the exact name depends on your state. You cannot register a vehicle in your name without completing this step, and your state's Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) will not process registration without it.
The form has two main sections: one for the seller to complete, one for the buyer. Both must sign it in front of a notary public in most states, though a few allow DMV staff to witness signatures instead. The seller typically gives you the completed form when you buy the vehicle. Your job as the buyer is to fill in your information, get the form notarized, and submit it to the DMV along with proof of ownership and a check for the title fee.
Key Takeaways
- The seller must sign the title in front of a notary; you cannot notarize it yourself after the fact, so get this done before you leave the lot or private sale.
- You will need the vehicle's VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), the odometer reading at the time of sale, and proof of your identity and address to complete your portion.
- Title transfer fees range from $15 to $300 depending on your state, and processing takes one to four weeks by mail or same-day if you go to the DMV in person.
- If the seller's name is misspelled on the original title or the title is damaged, you must correct it before the buyer can register the vehicle.
- Some states require a bill of sale or odometer disclosure form in addition to the title; check your state DMV website to see what forms you need.
Gathering the Documents You Need
Before you sit down with the form, collect the original title from the seller and verify that their name matches their driver's license. Check the vehicle's VIN against the title — it should be printed on the title and also on a sticker inside the driver's side door jamb or on the dashboard. Write down the current odometer reading; you will need this number on the form.
You will also need a valid government-issued photo ID and proof of your current address. Proof of address can be a utility bill, lease, mortgage statement, or bank statement dated within the last 60 days. If you moved recently and your ID does not show your current address, bring both the ID and the address proof. Some states also require a bill of sale — a simple document that lists the vehicle, the sale price, and the date of sale, signed by both buyer and seller. Check your state's DMV website to see if a bill of sale is required in your state.
How to Fill Out the Buyer's Section
The buyer's section of the title form asks for your full legal name, address, phone number, and driver's license number. Print clearly in black or blue ink. Do not use pencil or white-out. If you make a mistake, ask the DMV for a new form rather than crossing out and initialing — a corrected form is faster than explaining an error later.
Enter the vehicle's VIN exactly as it appears on the title. Enter the odometer reading as of the date of sale. Some forms ask whether the odometer has rolled over (gone past 99,999 miles) — answer honestly. If you are buying the vehicle with a co-owner, both names go on the title, and both of you must sign in front of the notary. Decide ahead of time how you want the names listed: "John Smith and Jane Smith" means both must sign documents later, while "John Smith or Jane Smith" means either one can act alone. Most buyers choose "and" for joint ownership.
Getting the Form Notarized
Both the seller and buyer must sign the title in front of a notary public. The seller signs first, in the seller's section. Then you sign in the buyer's section. The notary watches both signatures happen and stamps the form with their seal. This step cannot be skipped or done later — the DMV will reject an unsigned or improperly notarized title.
You can find a notary at your bank, a UPS Store, a FedEx Office, a local law office, or through an online search for "notary public near me." Notarization costs between $5 and $25 per signature. Some banks offer notary services free to account holders. Make sure the notary is commissioned in your state — a notary from another state cannot notarize your title. Bring both your ID and the seller's ID to the notary appointment, along with the unsigned title.
Submitting Your Completed Title to the DMV
Once the title is signed and notarized, you have two options: mail it to your state DMV or take it in person. Mailing takes one to four weeks depending on your state's processing speed. Taking it in person usually results in same-day processing, though you may wait in line. If you mail it, use certified mail with return receipt so you have proof the DMV received it.
Include the notarized title, a check or money order for the title transfer fee (do not send cash), a copy of your ID, and a copy of your proof of address. Some states require you to fill out an additional form — check your DMV website for the exact list. Write your name and phone number on the check. If you are mailing it, include a cover letter with your name, phone number, and the vehicle's VIN so the DMV can contact you if there are questions.
What Happens If There Is a Problem With the Title
If the seller's name is misspelled on the original title, or if the title is torn, water-damaged, or has corrections on it, the DMV may reject it. The seller must contact their state DMV to request a corrected or duplicate title before you can proceed. This can add two to four weeks to the process, so check the title carefully before you hand over money.
If the vehicle has a lien on it — meaning a bank or finance company still owns it — the title will show the lienholder's name. The seller must pay off the loan and get a clear title from the lender before transferring it to you. Do not accept a title with an active lien. If the seller says they will pay it off after the sale, get that promise in writing and consider holding the payment in escrow through a third party until the lien is removed.
Timeline and Fees by State
Title transfer fees and processing times vary significantly. Most states charge between $15 and $50 for a standard title transfer, though some charge more if you are also registering the vehicle at the same time. A few states bundle title and registration into one fee. Processing by mail typically takes one to four weeks; in-person processing at the DMV is usually same-day or next-day.
Some states charge extra fees for duplicate titles, corrected titles, or if you are transferring a title from out of state. A few states require an emissions test or safety inspection before you can transfer the title. Check your state DMV website for the exact fee and any additional requirements specific to your situation. If you are buying from a private seller rather than a dealer, ask them whether your state requires a bill of sale or odometer disclosure form — these are free but must be completed correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I register the vehicle before the title transfer is complete?
No. The DMV will not issue registration plates or a registration card until the title is in your name. You can drive the vehicle home from the sale on the seller's plates if they give you permission, but you must complete the title transfer before you can legally register it.
What if I lose the title after I buy the vehicle?
Contact your state DMV and request a duplicate title. You will need to prove ownership — usually with your registration card or a bill of sale — and pay a duplicate title fee, typically $10 to $30. Processing takes one to two weeks by mail.
Do I need the seller to be present when I submit the title to the DMV?
No. Once the seller has signed and the form is notarized, you can submit it alone. The notary's seal proves the seller signed. However, if there is a problem with the title, the DMV may contact the seller, so make sure they know you are submitting it.
What if the seller and I have different last names or one of us has a hyphenated name?
Print your legal name exactly as it appears on your government-issued ID. If your name is hyphenated, include the hyphen. If the seller's name on the title does not match their ID, the notary may refuse to notarize it — this is a red flag that the seller may not be the legal owner.
Can I transfer a title if the vehicle has an outstanding loan against it?
Not until the loan is paid off. The lender's name will appear on the title as the lienholder. The seller must pay off the loan and obtain a clear title from the lender before you can transfer ownership. Never accept a title with an active lien.