You can change your own oil in about 30 to 45 minutes with basic tools
Oil changes are one of the most straightforward maintenance tasks you can do yourself. You need an oil drain pan, a wrench that fits your drain plug, an oil filter wrench, new oil, a new filter, and jack stands if your car sits low to the ground. The whole job takes less time than a trip to a shop, costs less, and teaches you something useful about how your car works.
The hardest part is usually getting under the car safely and finding the drain plug and filter in the engine bay. Once you locate them, the actual work is simple: drain the old oil, replace the filter, add new oil, and check the level. This guide walks you through each step in order.
Key Takeaways
- You need an oil drain pan, a wrench sized to your drain plug, an oil filter wrench, new oil rated for your car, a new filter, and jack stands if your vehicle is low-slung.
- Warm the engine for two to three minutes before draining so the oil flows faster, but let it cool enough that you can touch the pan without burning yourself.
- The drain plug and oil filter are usually on the underside or side of the engine; consult your owner's manual or a service diagram if you cannot locate them.
- After draining, replace the filter, add the correct amount and type of new oil, start the engine, let it run for 30 seconds, then check the level on the dipstick or digital gauge.
Gather the right oil type and amount before you start
Your owner's manual specifies the oil viscosity (thickness) and capacity your engine needs. Common grades are 5W-30, 10W-30, and 0W-20; the numbers matter because using the wrong one can affect fuel economy and engine wear. Buy a quart or two more than your manual says you need, because you will top off after the filter change and may need a little extra.
Synthetic oil lasts longer between changes than conventional oil, but costs more upfront. Many newer cars require synthetic or a synthetic blend; check your manual. If you are unsure, ask at an auto parts store — they can look up your vehicle by year, make, and model in seconds. Buy the oil filter at the same time; it must match your specific engine, so bring your vehicle information with you.
Warm the engine and safely raise the car
Start the engine and let it idle for two to three minutes. Warm oil drains faster and more completely than cold oil. Turn off the engine and wait a minute or two so the oil cools enough that you can touch the pan without burning your hands.
If your car sits high enough that you can slide under it on your back, you may not need to raise it. If it does not, use a jack to lift the front end, then place jack stands under the frame on both sides. Never work under a car supported only by a jack — the jack can slip or fail. Consult your owner's manual for the correct jacking points; they are usually marked on the frame near the wheels. Lower the car onto the stands and leave the jack in place as a backup.
Locate and drain the old oil
Look under the engine for the drain plug, a bolt that sticks out from the bottom of the oil pan. It is usually a 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm bolt. If you cannot find it, check your owner's manual or search online for a diagram of your specific model. Place the drain pan directly under the plug to catch the oil.
Use your wrench to turn the plug counterclockwise. Once it is loose enough, unscrew it by hand — be ready for hot oil to drip. Let the pan fill as the oil drains; this can take five to ten minutes. While you wait, locate the oil filter. It is usually a cylindrical canister screwed onto the side or top of the engine. Once the oil stops dripping, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and set it aside.
Remove and replace the oil filter
Position the drain pan under the filter. Use an oil filter wrench — a metal band or socket that grips the filter — to turn it counterclockwise. Once it is loose, unscrew it by hand. Oil will spill, so work slowly. Dispose of the old filter in a recycling bin or auto parts store; many accept them for free.
Before installing the new filter, wipe the rubber sealing surface on the engine where the old filter sat. Dip your finger in new oil and coat the rubber gasket (the ring) on the new filter. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then turn it another three-quarter turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct.
Reinstall the drain plug and lower the car
Wipe the drain plug clean and inspect the washer (a small metal or rubber ring) underneath it. If the washer is damaged or missing, replace it. Screw the plug back in by hand, then use your wrench to tighten it. Do not overtighten; snug is enough. A plug that is too tight can strip the threads in the pan.
Lower the car back onto the ground by slowly releasing the jack. Remove the jack stands and move them to safety. If you raised the car, double-check that all four wheels are on the ground and the car is stable before you get in.
Add new oil and check the level
Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine — it usually has an oil can symbol on it. Unscrew it and set it aside. Place a funnel in the opening and pour in the amount of oil your manual specifies, usually four to six quarts. Pour slowly so it does not splash.
Screw the cap back on. Start the engine and let it run for about 30 seconds. This circulates the new oil and fills the filter. Turn off the engine and wait two to three minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan. Pull out the dipstick (a long metal rod with markings), wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again and read the level. The oil should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If it is low, add a little more and recheck. If it is overfull, drain a small amount into a container.
Dispose of old oil properly
Never pour used oil down a drain or into the ground. It contaminates water and soil and is illegal in most places. Pour the old oil from your drain pan into a sealed container — an empty oil jug works well. Take it to an auto parts store, quick-lube shop, or municipal hazardous waste facility. Most accept used oil for free. Some will also take the old filter if you bring it in a sealed bag.
Keep a record of when you changed the oil and the mileage. Write it on a sticker and place it inside the driver's door jamb, or note it in your phone. This helps you remember when the next change is due. Most cars need an oil change every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, depending on the oil type and your manual's recommendation.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what oil viscosity my car needs?
Check your owner's manual — it lists the correct viscosity on the first few pages or in the maintenance section. You can also find it on a sticker under the hood or search your vehicle's year, make, and model online. If you buy the wrong viscosity, it will not damage the engine immediately, but it can affect fuel economy and engine protection.
Can I change the oil without raising the car?
If your car sits high enough that you can fit under it on your back, yes. If not, you need to raise it. Always use jack stands, never a jack alone. If you are uncomfortable working under a car, a shop can do it for $30 to $75 plus the cost of oil and filter.
What if I spill oil on the driveway?
Wipe up what you can with rags or paper towels. For the stain, sprinkle cat litter, sand, or an oil absorbent product on the spot, let it sit for a few hours, then sweep it up. Avoid pouring water on it, which spreads the stain. For large spills, contact your local environmental agency for guidance.
Do I need to replace the drain plug washer every time?
Not always, but it is cheap insurance. If the washer looks cracked, flattened, or damaged, replace it. A bad washer can cause slow leaks. Washers cost less than a dollar, so many people replace them every time to avoid trouble later.
How often should I change my oil?
Check your owner's manual for the interval your manufacturer recommends. Older cars often needed changes every 3,000 miles, but modern engines and synthetic oils have stretched that to 5,000 to 10,000 miles or even longer. Using the wrong oil type or skipping changes can void your warranty.