You can replace a water heater element yourself if you have basic tools and follow the safety steps

A water heater element is the heating coil inside an electric water heater that warms the water. When it burns out, your water stops heating or heats slowly. Replacing it is a job most homeowners can do in an hour or two, though it requires draining the tank and working with electrical connections. If you have a gas water heater, you don't have an element to replace — gas heaters use a burner instead.

The element itself costs $15 to $50 depending on wattage and brand. You'll need a few tools you may already own: a wrench, a screwdriver, a bucket, and a voltage tester. The hardest part is usually draining the tank without making a mess, not the electrical work itself.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off power at the breaker and test the wires with a voltage tester before touching anything inside the tank.
  • Drain the tank completely using the drain valve at the bottom, which can take 30 minutes to an hour depending on tank size.
  • The element unscrews from the side or top of the tank with a large wrench — note which one failed so you replace the right one.
  • Electric water heaters have one or two elements; if you have two, they usually work in sequence, so replacing just the failed one is enough.
  • Refill the tank fully before turning power back on, or you risk burning out the new element immediately.

Shut off power and test for live current

Go to your electrical panel and flip the breaker for the water heater to the off position. The breaker is usually labeled "Water Heater" or "WH" and is typically a 30-amp or 40-amp double breaker. Flip it all the way to off, not to the middle.

Once the breaker is off, use a voltage tester (a battery-powered tool that costs $10 to $20) to confirm there is no live current at the water heater terminals. Touch the tester to the two wires connected to the element — if the tester beeps or lights up, current is still present and you need to find the correct breaker. Never skip this step. A voltage tester is not optional; it's the only way to know the power is actually off.

Drain the tank completely

Locate the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater tank. It looks like a small faucet or ball valve. Attach a garden hose to it if possible, or position a bucket underneath. Open the valve by turning it counterclockwise. Water will flow out — it may be hot, so be careful.

Draining takes 30 to 60 minutes depending on tank size. You can speed it up slightly by opening a hot water faucet in your home, which lets air into the tank and helps it drain faster. Leave the valve open until water stops flowing. You don't need the tank bone-dry, but it should be low enough that the element is no longer submerged.

Remove the old element

The element is bolted to the side or top of the tank through a large threaded fitting. You'll see two wires connected to it — these are the power leads. Take a photo of how they're connected before you disconnect them, or label them with tape so you remember which wire goes where.

Disconnect the two wires by loosening the terminal screws with a screwdriver. Set the wires aside. Now use a large wrench (usually 1.5 inches) to unscrew the element fitting from the tank. Turn counterclockwise. It will be tight — use steady pressure rather than jerking. Once it's loose enough, you can usually unscrew it by hand. Pull the old element straight out and set it aside.

Install the new element

Before you install the new element, check the old one to confirm the wattage and voltage — you'll see these stamped on the element itself. Buy a replacement with the exact same specs. Common sizes are 4500W or 5500W at 240 volts for residential tanks.

Slide the new element into the opening and thread it in by hand first, then tighten it with the wrench. Don't over-tighten — snug is enough. Reconnect the two wires to the terminals, matching them to your photo or labels. Tighten the terminal screws firmly but not so hard that you strip them.

Refill and test

Close the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Open a hot water faucet in your home and let it run. Water will come out in spurts as the tank fills and air escapes. Once water flows steadily from the faucet, the tank is full. Close the faucet.

Go back to the electrical panel and flip the water heater breaker back on. The element will begin heating immediately. Wait 30 to 60 minutes, then check a hot water faucet to see if the water is warming up. If it is, the job is done. If the water is still cold after an hour, turn the breaker off again and check that the wires are connected tightly to the terminals.

When to call a plumber instead

If you're uncomfortable working with electricity or your voltage tester shows current even after the breaker is off, stop and call a licensed electrician or plumber. If the tank itself is leaking from the drain valve or from around the element fitting, the tank may be corroded and replacement rather than repair is the better choice. If you have a gas water heater, you don't have an element — contact a professional for gas appliance work.

If the new element burns out within a few weeks, the problem may not be the element itself but something else — a faulty thermostat, a bad breaker, or sediment buildup in the tank. A plumber can diagnose this more quickly than trial and error.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to turn off the water supply before draining the tank?

No. The drain valve lets water out without affecting the supply line. However, turning off the water supply at the main shutoff (or at the inlet valve on top of the heater) prevents new water from entering while you work, which makes the job cleaner and faster.

What if I can't get the old element to unscrew?

Apply penetrating oil like WD-40 around the fitting and wait 15 minutes. Try again with the wrench, using steady pressure. If it still won't budge, tap the wrench handle gently with a hammer to break the corrosion loose. Do not force it hard enough to crack the tank.

Can I replace just one element if my water heater has two?

Yes. Most tanks with two elements have an upper and lower element that work in sequence — the upper one heats first, then the lower one kicks in. If only one has failed, replacing just that one is fine. Make sure you identify which one is bad before you start.

How long does a water heater element usually last?

Most elements last 5 to 10 years depending on water quality and usage. Hard water with high mineral content shortens element life because sediment builds up on it and causes it to overheat and fail sooner.

What should I do with the old element?

Take it to a scrap metal recycler or your local waste facility. Some recyclers will pay a small amount for copper and steel. Do not throw it in the trash.