What you need before you start
Changing a bicycle tyre requires a few specific tools and materials. You will need two tyre levers (plastic or metal tools that prise the tyre away from the rim), a replacement inner tube or a patch kit if you are repairing the existing one, and a pump to reinflate the tyre. Check that your replacement tube matches your wheel size — the size is printed on the side of your current tyre, usually as something like 700c, 26 inches, or 29 inches. You should also have the correct valve type: most bikes use either a Schrader valve (wider, like a car tyre) or a Presta valve (thinner, with a small locking nut at the top).
Before you begin, find a flat, stable surface and flip your bike upside down so the wheels are in the air. This makes the work easier and keeps the bike steady. If you have quick-release levers on your wheel, open them. If your wheel is bolted on, you will need an appropriately sized wrench or Allen key to remove it.
Key Takeaways
- Remove the wheel by opening the quick-release lever or unbolting the axle, then use two tyre levers to prise the tyre bead away from the rim on both sides.
- Pull out the old inner tube completely, then inspect the inside of the tyre for thorns, glass, or sharp objects that caused the puncture.
- Insert the new or repaired tube by first inflating it slightly so it holds its shape, then seating it evenly inside the tyre all the way around.
- Reseat the tyre bead by pushing the tyre edge back into the rim with your hands, working around the wheel, then use the pump to inflate to the pressure marked on the tyre sidewall.
- Reinstall the wheel, ensuring the brake calliper or disc is properly aligned, then test the brakes before riding.
Removing the wheel and tyre
Once the wheel is free from the frame, lay it flat on the ground. Insert one tyre lever under the tyre bead (the edge of the tyre that sits in the rim) about 15 centimetres from the valve. Prise gently upward until the tyre bead lifts over the rim edge. Hook the lever to a spoke or frame stay to hold it in place. Insert the second lever about 30 centimetres away and repeat. Work your way around the wheel, spacing the levers evenly, until one side of the tyre is completely free of the rim.
Once one side is loose, you can usually pull the tyre away by hand. Locate the valve and push it through the rim hole from the inside, then pull the entire inner tube out. Set the tyre aside — you will need to inspect it next. Do not discard the tyre yet; you need to check what caused the puncture so it does not happen again.
Finding what caused the puncture
Run your fingers carefully along the inside surface of the tyre, feeling for thorns, glass shards, or sharp metal. This is the most common reason a new tube punctures immediately after installation. If you find an object, remove it. Also check the rim tape — the strip of material that covers the spoke holes. If it is torn or missing, the sharp spoke ends can puncture tubes. If the rim tape is damaged, replace it before installing a new tube.
If you cannot find an obvious cause, the puncture may have come from a pinch flat (the tube was trapped between the tyre and rim, usually from hitting a pothole) or from gradual wear. Pinch flats typically show two small holes close together on the tube. If this is the case, make sure you inflate the new tube to the correct pressure — under-inflation makes pinch flats more likely.
Installing the new or repaired tube
Before inserting the tube, inflate it slightly — just enough so it holds its shape and is not completely flat. This makes it much easier to seat evenly and reduces the risk of twisting it inside the tyre. Insert the valve through the rim hole first, then tuck the tube into the tyre all the way around, working your way around the wheel to make sure it sits evenly and is not bunched or twisted anywhere.
Once the tube is in place, begin pushing the tyre bead back into the rim by hand, starting opposite the valve. Work your way around the wheel, pushing the tyre edge down into the rim with the heel of your hand. When you get close to the valve, you may need to push the valve up into the tyre to create slack, then pull the tyre bead down over the rim. The last section is always the tightest — take your time and work gradually around rather than forcing one spot.
Inflating and reinstalling the wheel
Once the tyre is fully seated, attach your pump to the valve. The pressure you need is printed on the sidewall of the tyre — it is usually a range, such as 80–130 psi for a road bike or 30–50 psi for a mountain bike. Start inflating slowly and watch the tyre bead to make sure it is seating evenly on both sides of the rim. If one side bulges outward more than the other, stop, deflate slightly, and adjust the tube position. Inflate to the lower end of the recommended range first, then check that everything looks even before inflating to your target pressure.
Once the tyre is inflated, reinstall the wheel on the frame. Align the brake calliper or disc brake with the rotor, then tighten the quick-release or bolts firmly. Spin the wheel to make sure it does not rub on the brake pads or frame. Squeeze the brake lever to confirm the brakes are working before you ride.
Repairing a tube instead of replacing it
If you are using a patch kit rather than a new tube, the process is slightly different. After removing the old tube, locate the puncture hole. If it is very small, you may need to dry the tube completely and lightly sand the area around the hole with the sandpaper included in most patch kits. Apply the adhesive (if your kit requires it), wait the time specified on the kit instructions, then press the patch firmly onto the hole and hold it for the recommended time. Let the patch cure fully before reinstalling the tube — this usually takes several minutes.
Patch kits work best for small punctures in the tube itself. If the valve is damaged, the tube has multiple holes, or the hole is very large, a new tube is more reliable. Patches can fail mid-ride if not applied correctly, so if you are uncertain, a replacement tube is the safer choice.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I cannot get the tyre bead to reseat on the rim?
The tyre bead may be stuck because the tube is twisted underneath or because the tyre is very tight. Deflate completely, then work your way around the wheel again, making sure the tube is sitting evenly and not bunched. If the tyre is simply tight, inflate very slowly and watch both sides of the rim — sometimes one side will suddenly pop into place as pressure builds.
Can I use a different size tube than my tyre size?
No — the tube must match your tyre size and valve type. Using a tube that is too small will stretch and puncture easily; using one that is too large will bunch inside the tyre and pinch. Always check the size printed on the tyre sidewall and buy a tube marked for that size.
How tight should I inflate the tyre?
Inflate to the pressure range printed on the tyre sidewall. This range exists because different riders and conditions need different pressures — heavier riders or rough terrain usually need higher pressure, while lighter riders or smooth roads can use lower pressure within the range. Start at the lower end and adjust based on how the bike feels.
What if the puncture happens again immediately after I fix it?
This usually means either the tyre still contains a sharp object you missed, the rim tape is damaged, or the tube is being pinched. Remove the wheel again and inspect the inside of the tyre very carefully, running your fingers slowly all the way around. Check the rim tape for tears. If you find nothing, the issue may be pinch flats from under-inflation — inflate the new tube to the higher end of the recommended pressure range.
Do I need to remove the wheel to change a tyre?
Yes — you cannot reseat a tyre bead properly while the wheel is on the frame. The frame gets in the way, and you need access to both sides of the rim. Remove the wheel completely, work on it on a flat surface, then reinstall it when you are finished.