You can replace a sink faucet yourself in one to three hours with basic tools

Replacing a faucet is one of the most straightforward plumbing repairs a homeowner can do. You need an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver, and usually a basin wrench (a specialized tool that costs about $15). The job involves turning off the water, disconnecting the old faucet, and bolting the new one in place. Most people finish in an afternoon, and you do not need a plumber unless the old faucet is stuck or the sink deck is damaged underneath.

The hardest part is usually working in the tight space under the sink. If you are uncomfortable lying on your back or reaching into dark corners, or if your sink is mounted high, a plumber will charge $150 to $300 for the same work. But the task itself is not complicated, and mistakes are hard to make if you follow the steps in order.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply before you disconnect anything, using the shut-off valves under the sink or the main water valve if those do not exist.
  • A basin wrench lets you reach the bolts that hold the faucet from underneath without removing the sink, and it is the one tool that makes this job possible.
  • Disconnect the supply lines and drain plug before you unbolts the faucet, then clean the sink deck before installing the new one.
  • Most new faucets come with mounting hardware and instructions specific to that model, so read them before you start.

Turn off the water before you touch anything

Look under the sink for two shut-off valves, one on each supply line (hot and cold). They are usually oval knobs or small levers. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Then turn on the faucet at the sink to release any water still in the lines. If you do not see shut-off valves under the sink, you will need to turn off the main water valve for the house, which is usually in the basement, crawlspace, or outside near the foundation.

If the shut-off valves are stuck or do not stop the water flow, do not force them. Turn off the main valve instead. A stuck valve can break, and you do not want to discover that in the middle of the job.

Disconnect the supply lines and drain plug

Place a bucket or towel under the supply lines. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts where the supply lines connect to the faucet. They will not come off completely at first—turn them by hand once the wrench has loosened them. Water will drip out, which is normal. Unscrew the nuts the rest of the way and set the supply lines aside.

If your sink has a pop-up drain (the plug that opens and closes from the faucet handle), you will see a rod running from the back of the faucet down to the drain assembly. Disconnect this rod by unscrewing the nut that holds it, or by unclipping it if it uses a clip. This rod must come free before the faucet will lift out.

Remove the old faucet using a basin wrench

The faucet is held down by bolts on the underside of the sink deck. You cannot reach these bolts with a regular wrench because the sink is in the way. A basin wrench has a long handle and a small head that pivots, so you can slip it up into the tight space under the faucet and turn the bolts. Slide the basin wrench up behind the faucet, position the head over the bolt, and turn the handle. The bolt will come loose. Do the same for the other bolt or bolts (most faucets have two).

Once the bolts are loose, you can lift the old faucet out of the sink. You may need to wiggle it a little. If it is stuck, spray penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the base where it meets the sink and wait 15 minutes before trying again. Do not pry hard or you risk cracking the sink.

Clean the sink deck and install the new faucet

The area where the old faucet sat will have mineral deposits, old caulk, or corrosion. Scrape it clean with a plastic scraper or old credit card. Wipe it dry with a cloth. This step matters because a clean surface helps the new faucet seal properly and look finished.

Read the instructions that came with your new faucet. Most faucets come with a rubber gasket or metal ring that goes on the underside of the deck before you bolt the faucet down. Slide the faucet into the hole, position the gasket or ring underneath, and hand-tighten the bolts. Then use the basin wrench to tighten them fully. Do not over-tighten—snug is enough. If you crack the sink deck, you will need to replace the sink.

Reconnect the supply lines and test for leaks

Reconnect the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet. Hand-tighten the nuts first, then use the adjustable wrench to snug them another quarter turn. If your old faucet had a pop-up drain rod, reconnect that now by screwing the nut back on or re-clipping it. Check the instructions for the exact position—it usually needs to be tight enough that the drain closes fully when you push the handle up.

Turn the water back on at the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn on the faucet and let it run for 30 seconds. Check under the sink for drips at the supply line connections and at the base of the faucet. If you see water, turn off the water and tighten the connection a little more. Once everything is dry, you are done.

What to do if the old faucet will not budge

If the bolts spin but do not loosen, the bolt head may be stripped or the bolt may be corroded to the faucet body. Spray penetrating oil around the base of the faucet where it meets the sink and wait several hours or overnight. Try again with the basin wrench. If it still will not move, you can cut the supply lines with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and remove the faucet that way, then drill out the old bolts from underneath.

If the faucet itself is cracked or the sink deck around it is damaged, you may need a plumber to assess whether the sink can be salvaged or needs replacement. This is rare, but it is worth knowing before you start that you might uncover a bigger problem.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a plumber's license to replace my own faucet?

No. Replacing a faucet is a homeowner repair in every state. You do not need a license, and you do not need to pull a permit. If you are renting, check your lease—some landlords require written permission before you make changes.

What if my sink does not have shut-off valves underneath?

Older homes sometimes lack individual shut-off valves. You will need to turn off the main water valve for the house. It is usually in the basement, crawlspace, or outside near the foundation. If you cannot find it, call your water company and ask where it is. While you are replacing the faucet, consider having a plumber install shut-off valves under the sink so you do not have to do this again.

Can I install a faucet with a different number of holes than my old one?

If your new faucet needs fewer holes than your sink has, you can cover the extra holes with decorative caps that come with the faucet. If it needs more holes, you cannot use it without drilling new holes in the sink, which requires a special bit and is risky. Measure your sink before you buy a new faucet.

How tight should I make the bolts under the sink?

Hand-tighten first, then use the basin wrench to turn each bolt about a quarter turn more. The faucet should not move when you push on it, but you should not feel like you are straining the wrench. Over-tightening can crack the sink deck or strip the bolts.

What if water leaks from under the faucet after I install it?

Turn off the water and check that the gasket or ring under the faucet is seated properly and not torn. Tighten the bolts slightly more. If the leak continues, the gasket may be defective—remove the faucet and replace the gasket, or return the faucet to the store.