You can replace an outside faucet yourself if you have basic tools and the water is shut off
Replacing an outdoor faucet is a straightforward repair that most homeowners can do in an hour or two. The job involves disconnecting the old faucet from the water line, removing it from the wall, and installing a new one in its place. You will need an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver, plumber's tape, and a new faucet — all available at any hardware store for under $50 total.
The hardest part is usually finding and shutting off the water supply to that particular faucet. Some older homes have a dedicated shutoff valve near the faucet; others require you to shut off the main water supply to the house. Before you start, locate that valve and test it by turning it clockwise until water stops flowing from the faucet.
Key Takeaways
- Shut off the water supply to the faucet before disconnecting anything, and test the shutoff by opening the faucet to confirm water has stopped.
- Disconnect the supply line from the faucet using an adjustable wrench, then unscrew the faucet from the wall or spigot base.
- Wrap plumber's tape around the threads of the new faucet before screwing it in to prevent leaks at the connection.
- Reconnect the supply line, turn the water back on, and check for leaks at both the faucet base and the connection point.
Locate and shut off the water supply
Walk around the outside of your house and look for a small valve box or shutoff near the faucet you are replacing. It may be on the wall, in the ground, or inside a basement or crawl space. If you find one, turn it clockwise with an adjustable wrench until it stops — do not force it. Then go back to the faucet and turn the handle to confirm no water comes out.
If you cannot find a dedicated shutoff, you will need to shut off the main water supply to the house. This valve is usually in the basement, crawl space, or near the water meter. Turn it clockwise until it stops, then test the outdoor faucet again. Leave a note for anyone else in the house that the water is off so they do not turn it back on while you are working.
After the water is off, open the faucet handle fully and leave it open. This drains any remaining water in the line and prevents pressure buildup when you reconnect the supply.
Disconnect the supply line from the old faucet
Look underneath or behind the faucet for the connection where the water line attaches. You will see a nut holding the supply line to the faucet. Use an adjustable wrench to turn that nut counterclockwise. Hold the faucet body steady with your other hand so you do not bend or crack it while loosening the nut.
Once the nut is loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way and pull the supply line away from the faucet. Water may drip out — this is normal. If water continues to flow, your shutoff valve is not fully closed; go back and turn it more.
Inspect the end of the supply line. If it looks corroded or damaged, you may want to replace it along with the faucet. Most hardware stores sell replacement supply lines in standard lengths, and they cost $10 to $20.
Remove the old faucet from the wall or base
Most outdoor faucets are held in place by a nut on the inside of the wall or by a threaded base that screws into the wall. If the faucet goes through the wall, you will see a large nut on the inside. Use an adjustable wrench to turn that nut counterclockwise while holding the faucet body steady from the outside.
If the faucet has a threaded base that screws directly into the wall, use an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench to turn the base counterclockwise. Again, hold the faucet body steady so you do not damage the wall or the fitting inside.
Once the faucet is loose, pull it straight out and away from the wall. Set it aside. Look at the hole or fitting left behind — you may see old plumber's tape or sealant. Wipe away any debris or old tape with a dry cloth.
Install the new faucet with plumber's tape
Before you screw the new faucet in, wrap plumber's tape (also called PTFE tape or Teflon tape) around the threaded part that will go into the wall. Wrap it clockwise three to four times, stretching it slightly as you go. This tape seals the connection and prevents leaks. It costs about $3 and is essential — do not skip this step.
Screw the new faucet into the wall or through the hole by hand first, turning clockwise. Once it is hand-tight, use an adjustable wrench to tighten it further. Turn slowly and stop when you feel resistance — you want it snug, not over-tightened, which can crack the fitting or strip the threads.
If the faucet has a nut on the inside of the wall, tighten that nut with a wrench while holding the faucet body steady from the outside. The faucet should not move or wobble when you are done.
Reconnect the supply line and test for leaks
Take the supply line and screw the nut back onto the faucet connection by hand first. Once it is hand-tight, use an adjustable wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. Do not over-tighten — this is a common mistake that can crack the fitting or strip the threads.
Now go back to the shutoff valve and turn it counterclockwise slowly to restore water pressure. Listen and watch for leaks at the connection between the supply line and the faucet. If water drips, turn the shutoff back off, wait a few seconds, and tighten the nut another quarter turn with your wrench. Repeat until the leak stops.
Open the faucet handle and let water run for 10 to 15 seconds to flush out any debris from the line. Check the faucet base where it enters the wall — water should not be seeping out there. If it is, the plumber's tape may not have sealed properly, and you will need to remove the faucet and rewrap it.
Common problems and how to fix them
If water leaks from the connection between the supply line and the faucet, the nut is not tight enough or the threads are damaged. Turn off the water, disconnect the line, and inspect the threads on the faucet. If they look stripped or corroded, you may need a new faucet. If they look fine, reconnect the line and tighten the nut more firmly.
If water seeps from where the faucet enters the wall, the plumber's tape did not seal properly. Turn off the water, disconnect the supply line, and unscrew the faucet. Unwrap the old tape, clean the threads with a dry cloth, and wrap new tape around them three to four times. Reinstall the faucet and reconnect the supply line.
If the faucet handle is hard to turn or does not shut off completely, the internal valve may be stuck or damaged. This is not a problem you can fix by tightening connections — you will need to replace the faucet. The good news is that you now know how to do it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to replace the supply line when I replace the faucet?
Not always, but you should inspect it. If the line is kinked, corroded, or more than 10 years old, replace it. A new supply line costs $10 to $20 and takes two minutes to install, so it is worth doing while you have the water off.
What if I cannot find the shutoff valve for the outdoor faucet?
Shut off the main water supply to the house instead. It is usually in the basement, crawl space, or near the water meter. If you cannot find it, call a plumber — they can locate it and show you where it is for future reference.
Can I use regular tape instead of plumber's tape?
No. Regular tape will not seal the connection and water will leak. Plumber's tape is inexpensive and essential. It is sold at every hardware store in the plumbing section.
How tight should I make the connections?
Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench. Over-tightening can crack the fitting or strip the threads, making the leak worse. If it still leaks after a quarter turn, turn off the water and try another quarter turn — do not force it.
What if the faucet still leaks after I have tightened everything?
Turn off the water and inspect the threads on both the faucet and the supply line connection. If either looks stripped or damaged, you may need to replace that part. If the threads look fine, disconnect, rewrap the faucet threads with fresh plumber's tape, and reconnect.