You can replace a kitchen faucet in two to four hours with basic tools

A kitchen faucet replacement is one of the most straightforward plumbing projects a homeowner can tackle. You need a wrench, pliers, a bucket, and the new faucet — most of the work is disconnecting the old one and connecting the new one underneath the sink. The hardest part is usually reaching the bolts in the tight space below the counter, not the actual plumbing.

The job breaks into five steps: turn off the water, disconnect the supply lines, remove the old faucet, install the new one, and reconnect the water. If your faucet is stuck or the bolts are corroded, it takes longer. If everything comes apart cleanly, you can finish in an afternoon.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water at the shutoff valves under the sink before you disconnect anything, and test that the water is actually off by turning on the faucet.
  • Disconnect the hot and cold supply lines and the drain line (if your faucet has a sprayer) by loosening the compression nuts with a wrench or pliers.
  • Remove the old faucet by unbolting it from underneath the sink, then clean the sink surface before installing the new one.
  • Install the new faucet by threading the bolts through the sink holes, tightening them from underneath, and reconnecting the supply lines to the correct ports.
  • Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks at every connection before you consider the job done.

Shut off the water and drain the lines

Locate the shutoff valves under your sink — there should be two, one for hot water and one for cold. They look like small knobs or levers attached to the copper or plastic pipes coming up from the wall or floor. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Do not force them; they should turn smoothly.

Turn on the faucet at the sink to release any water still in the lines. Water will come out for a few seconds, then stop. This step prevents water from spilling everywhere when you disconnect the supply lines. If the shutoff valves do not work or you cannot find them, you will need to shut off the main water supply to the house instead — it is usually in the basement, garage, or outside near the foundation.

Disconnect the water supply lines

Place a bucket under the pipes to catch any remaining water. You will see two flexible hoses (or sometimes rigid copper tubes) connected to the faucet body with compression nuts — the hexagonal fittings where the hose meets the faucet. Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to turn these nuts counterclockwise. Hold the fitting steady with one wrench while you turn the nut with another so you do not twist the pipe itself.

If the nuts are very tight or corroded, spray them with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes before trying again. Do not use excessive force — if a nut will not budge, it is better to call a plumber than to strip the fitting. Once both supply lines are loose, pull them away from the faucet and let any remaining water drip into the bucket.

Remove the old faucet from the sink

Look underneath the sink at the faucet body. You will see bolts (usually two or three) holding it to the underside of the sink deck. These are called mounting bolts or faucet bolts. Use a wrench or socket to turn them counterclockwise. You may need to hold the faucet steady from above with your other hand so it does not spin.

Once the bolts are loose, go back to the top of the sink and lift the old faucet out. There may be a rubber or silicone gasket underneath — remove it and clean the sink surface with a cloth. Wipe away any old caulk, mineral deposits, or debris. A clean surface helps the new faucet seal properly and look finished.

Install the new faucet and reconnect the water

Most new faucets come with a rubber gasket and mounting hardware. Place the gasket on the underside of the new faucet, then lower the faucet through the sink holes. From underneath, thread the mounting bolts through the faucet body and tighten them by hand first, then with a wrench. Tighten in a crisscross pattern (left bolt, then right bolt, then left again) so the faucet sits evenly. Do not over-tighten — snug is enough.

Connect the hot and cold supply lines to the correct ports on the new faucet. Most faucets have the ports labeled or color-coded (red for hot, blue for cold). Use two wrenches again — one to hold the fitting and one to turn the compression nut. Tighten by hand first, then with a wrench until snug. If your new faucet has a sprayer hose, connect it the same way.

Turn the water back on and check for leaks

Go back under the sink and slowly turn the shutoff valves counterclockwise to restore water pressure. Turn them slowly so you do not create a water hammer (a loud bang in the pipes). Once the valves are fully open, turn on the faucet at the sink and let it run for 30 seconds to flush out any debris from the lines.

Watch underneath the sink while the water runs. Check every connection — both supply lines, the drain connection if there is one, and the mounting bolts — for drips or sprays. If you see a leak at a compression nut, turn off the water, tighten that nut a quarter turn with a wrench, and test again. If water leaks from under the faucet body itself, the gasket may not be seated correctly; you will need to remove the faucet and reseat it. Once everything is dry after five minutes of running water, the job is complete.

When to call a plumber instead

If the shutoff valves do not work, do not force them — call a plumber to replace them or shut off the main supply. If the mounting bolts are so corroded that you cannot turn them without stripping them, or if the old faucet is soldered to the supply lines instead of using compression nuts, a plumber can remove it without damaging the sink or pipes underneath.

If you discover that your sink does not have shutoff valves at all, a plumber should install them before you replace the faucet. This is a small job but requires soldering or compression fittings, and it is worth having done right so you can shut off the water to the sink in the future without affecting the rest of the house.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need special tools to replace a kitchen faucet?

No. An adjustable wrench, pliers, a bucket, and a cloth are enough for most jobs. Some faucets come with a special wrench for the mounting bolts, but a standard wrench works just as well. A headlamp or flashlight helps because the space under the sink is dark.

What if water keeps dripping from the new faucet after I turn it off?

A small drip for a few seconds after you turn off the faucet is normal as the cartridge or valve inside settles. If water drips steadily for more than a minute, the cartridge may not be seated correctly or the faucet may have a defect. Check the manufacturer's instructions for your specific model, or contact the seller about a replacement.

Can I replace a two-handle faucet with a single-handle one?

Yes, but you need to check the sink holes. A two-handle faucet usually has three holes (one for each handle and one for the spout), while a single-handle faucet may have one hole or three. If the hole count does not match, you will need to plug extra holes or drill new ones, which is more involved than a simple swap.

What should I do with the old faucet?

Most metal faucets can be recycled at a scrap metal facility. Some plumbing supply stores take old faucets for recycling. If the faucet still works, you can donate it or sell it. Do not throw it in the trash if recycling is an option in your area.

How long does a new kitchen faucet usually last?

A mid-range faucet typically lasts 15 to 20 years with normal use. Higher-end faucets can last 25 years or longer. The lifespan depends on water quality, how often you use it, and whether the cartridge or valve inside wears out. Most faucets fail because the internal cartridge leaks, not because the body breaks.