What you need to know before you start

A dryer heating element is a coil of wire that gets hot and dries your clothes. When it stops working, your dryer runs but clothes come out damp or cold. Replacing it yourself takes about an hour and costs $30 to $150 for the part, depending on your dryer model. You do not need special tools — a screwdriver, a multimeter (optional but useful), and a socket wrench are enough.

The heating element sits inside the dryer drum assembly. To reach it, you will remove the front or back panel of your dryer. The exact steps depend on whether your dryer is electric or gas, and whether the panel comes off the front or back. Gas dryers have a heating element too, but the process is similar; the main difference is that gas dryers also have an igniter that can fail separately.

Before you start, unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. If your dryer is gas-powered, also turn off the gas valve at the wall. Do not skip this step — a live dryer can cause serious injury.

Key Takeaways

  • Always unplug the dryer and turn off the gas valve (if applicable) before opening the cabinet or touching any parts.
  • The heating element is located inside the drum assembly, behind either the front or back panel depending on your dryer model.
  • You will need to remove the drum or the blower wheel to access the heating element housing, which holds the coil in place.
  • Test the old element with a multimeter to confirm it is broken before you buy a replacement, since other parts can cause the same symptoms.
  • Write down the model number from the back of your dryer before you shop for a replacement part, because heating elements are model-specific.

Find your dryer model and the correct replacement part

The heating element is different for every dryer model. Buying the wrong one means wasted money and a trip back to the store. Look at the back of your dryer or inside the door frame for a metal plate with the manufacturer name and model number. Write this down exactly as it appears.

Go to the manufacturer's website (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, GE, Maytag, and others all have parts sections) or call an appliance parts supplier with your model number. Tell them you need a replacement heating element. They will give you the exact part number and the price. Some suppliers will also tell you whether the element is accessible from the front or back of your dryer, which saves you time.

If you cannot find the model number, take a photo of the plate and bring it to an appliance parts store. Staff there can usually match it to the correct part. Heating elements typically cost $40 to $150 depending on the brand.

Remove the dryer cabinet to access the heating element

Unplug the dryer. If it is gas, turn off the gas valve at the wall. Let the dryer cool for at least 30 minutes if it was recently running.

Most electric dryers have the heating element accessible from the back. Remove the back panel by unscrewing the bolts or clips that hold it on — usually four to six fasteners. Slide the panel straight back and set it aside. You should now see the blower wheel and the heating element housing behind it.

Some dryer models (particularly front-loaders) require you to remove the front panel instead. If so, open the door and look for clips or screws along the top and sides of the front panel. Remove these, then slide the panel up and out. You may also need to remove the drum seal or gasket to access the heating element housing.

If you are unsure which panel to remove, search online for "[your model number] heating element replacement" and watch a video. Seeing it done takes the guesswork out.

Remove the blower wheel or drum to reach the heating element housing

Once the back or front panel is off, you will see the heating element housing — a metal box or cylinder that holds the heating coil. To reach it, you usually need to remove the blower wheel (a fan-like part) or, in some models, the drum itself.

The blower wheel is held on by a single bolt or clip in the center. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt, or release the clip by hand. Slide the blower wheel straight out. Set it aside carefully — it is fragile.

If your model requires removing the drum, you will see a large bolt or clip at the center front of the drum. Remove this, then slide the drum straight out toward you. This takes more effort than removing the blower wheel, but the process is the same.

Disconnect and remove the old heating element

With the blower wheel or drum out of the way, you can now see the heating element housing clearly. It is a metal box with two or three wire terminals sticking out of the back or side. These terminals connect to the dryer's wiring harness.

Before you disconnect anything, take a photo of how the wires are connected. This makes reassembly much easier. Then, gently pull each wire terminal straight out of its socket. Do not yank — pull straight and steady.

The heating element housing is held in place by one or two bolts or clips. Remove these with a socket wrench or screwdriver. Slide the housing straight out toward you. The old element is now free.

Test the old element (optional but recommended)

Before you throw away the old element, you can test it with a multimeter to confirm it is actually broken. This takes two minutes and tells you whether the element itself failed or whether something else is wrong with the dryer.

Set your multimeter to the resistance setting (ohms). Touch one probe to each of the two terminals on the heating element. A working element will show a resistance between 10 and 20 ohms. If the meter shows zero or infinity (no reading), the element is broken and needs to be replaced. If it shows a normal reading, the element is fine and the problem is elsewhere — possibly the thermostat, thermal fuse, or wiring.

If the element tests fine, put it back in and reassemble the dryer. The issue is not the heating element, and replacing it will not fix the problem.

Install the new heating element and reassemble

Slide the new heating element housing into the space where the old one was. Make sure it sits flat and fully inserted. Reinstall the bolts or clips that hold it in place. Tighten them snugly but do not over-tighten — you can crack the housing.

Reconnect the wire terminals to the back of the new element. Use your photo from earlier to make sure each wire goes back to the correct terminal. Push each terminal straight in until it clicks or sits flush.

Slide the blower wheel or drum back into place and secure it with the bolt or clip. Make sure everything is seated properly and nothing is loose or twisted.

Reinstall the back or front panel of the dryer and tighten all bolts or clips. Plug the dryer back in. If it is gas, turn the gas valve back on. Run the dryer on a short cycle with no clothes inside to test it. The drum should spin and you should feel heat coming from the vent. If everything works, you are done.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?

The dryer runs and the drum spins, but clothes come out damp or cold. A multimeter test will show zero or infinite resistance on a broken element. If the element tests fine, the problem is usually a blown thermal fuse, a bad thermostat, or a wiring issue — not the element itself.

Can I replace the heating element without removing the drum?

It depends on your model. Some dryers let you access the element from the back without removing the drum. Others require you to remove the drum or blower wheel first. Check a video for your specific model before you start — it will show you exactly what needs to come out.

What if I reconnect the wires and the dryer does not heat?

First, unplug the dryer and check that all wire terminals are pushed in fully and seated correctly. If they are, test the new element with a multimeter to make sure it is not defective. If the element tests good but the dryer still does not heat, the problem may be a bad thermostat or a wiring issue — not the element.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse at the same time?

No, unless it is also blown. The thermal fuse is a separate part that cuts power if the dryer overheats. If it is blown, the dryer will not run at all. If the dryer runs but does not heat, the thermal fuse is probably fine. Replace it only if testing shows it is open (broken).

How long does a new heating element last?

A heating element typically lasts 5 to 10 years with normal use. If you clean the lint trap after every load and make sure the vent is not clogged, the element will last longer. A clogged vent forces the element to work harder and fail sooner.