What You Need Before You Start
Changing a bicycle tire requires a few specific tools and materials. You will need two tire levers (plastic or metal tools that pry the tire bead away from the rim), a new inner tube or a patch kit if you are repairing the existing one, and a pump. Some people also carry a small container of water or soapy solution to help seat the tire bead, though this is optional. If you have a quick-release axle, you can remove the wheel without tools; if your bike has bolt-on axles, you will need an appropriately sized wrench.
Before you begin, identify which wheel needs changing. The front wheel is simpler to remove than the rear wheel because the chain is not involved. If it is the rear wheel, you will need to shift the chain onto the smallest cog first, which gives you more room to work. Lay your bike on its side on a clean, flat surface so the wheel stays stable while you work.
Key Takeaways
- Remove the wheel by opening the quick-release lever or unbolting the axle, then pry off the tire using two tire levers positioned opposite each other around the rim.
- Inspect the inside of the tire for thorns, glass, or sharp objects before installing a new or repaired inner tube, because the same puncture will happen again otherwise.
- Seat the new tube partially by hand, then use the pump to inflate it slightly before pushing the tire bead fully onto the rim to avoid pinching the tube.
- Inflate to the pressure printed on the tire sidewall, which varies by tire width and bike type, then reinstall the wheel and check that it spins freely without rubbing.
Removing the Wheel from the Frame
Open the quick-release lever on the axle by flipping it outward, or unscrew the bolt axles with your wrench if your bike does not have quick-release. For the rear wheel, pull the derailleur back and lift the chain off the smallest cog. Lift the wheel out of the frame and set it on the ground in front of you.
If you are working on the rear wheel, you may need to guide the tire past the brake pads or brake caliper depending on your brake type. Take your time here; forcing the wheel can bend the rim or damage the brakes. Once the wheel is free, lay it flat on the ground with the valve stem pointing toward you.
Prying Off the Old Tire
Insert the first tire lever under the tire bead (the edge of the tire that sits on the rim) about 6 inches away from the valve stem. Pry gently until the bead lifts over the rim edge. Hook the tire lever to a spoke or spoke hole to hold it in place. Insert the second tire lever about 12 inches away and repeat, then slide one lever around the rim to free the entire bead on one side of the tire.
Once one side of the tire is loose, you can usually pull the inner tube out by hand. Start at the valve stem and work your way around, peeling the tube away from the tire. Do not yank it; let it come free gradually. The tire itself will usually stay seated on the rim on the opposite side. If you need to remove it completely, repeat the lever process on the second side, though this is rarely necessary.
Checking the Tire for Damage
Before you install a new tube, run your fingers carefully along the inside surface of the tire, feeling for thorns, glass shards, or sharp objects. This is the most important step many people skip. If the same object that punctured the first tube is still embedded in the tire, your new tube will puncture within hours or days. Work slowly and feel the entire inner surface, paying special attention to the area around the puncture if you can see it.
If you find a thorn or shard, remove it with tweezers or your fingernail. If the tire has a large cut or gash in the rubber (not just a puncture hole), the tire itself needs to be replaced, not just the tube. A patch kit will not hold under the pressure and flex of riding. If the tire is damaged, install a new tire as well as a new tube before reinstalling the wheel.
Installing the New or Repaired Inner Tube
If you are patching the old tube, follow the patch kit instructions and let the patch cure for the time specified before proceeding. For a new tube, inflate it slightly by hand or with a few pump strokes until it holds its shape. This prevents the tube from twisting inside the tire during installation.
Insert the valve stem through the rim hole first, then tuck the tube into the tire all the way around, working your way around the wheel. Make sure the tube is not twisted and sits evenly inside the tire. Once the tube is in place, use your hands to push the tire bead back onto the rim, starting opposite the valve stem and working your way around. You should be able to do most of this by hand; if you need the tire levers again, use them gently and only where necessary.
Inflating the Tire to the Correct Pressure
Before you inflate fully, pump the tire to about 20 to 30 pounds per square inch (PSI) and stop to check that the tire bead is seating evenly on the rim all the way around. Look at the thin line where the tire meets the rim; it should be straight and centered, not bulging or dipping. If the bead is not seated, deflate slightly, adjust the tube position, and try again.
Once the bead is seated, inflate to the pressure printed on the tire sidewall. This pressure varies by tire width and bike type: road bike tires typically range from 80 to 130 PSI, while mountain bike tires range from 30 to 50 PSI. Do not guess or use a pressure that worked on a different bike. Overinflating can cause the tire to burst; underinflating causes pinch flats and makes the bike harder to pedal. Use a pump with a pressure gauge so you can see the exact PSI as you inflate.
Reinstalling the Wheel and Testing
Lower the wheel back into the frame, making sure the axle sits fully in the dropouts (the slots that hold the wheel). For the rear wheel, guide the chain onto the smallest cog and make sure the derailleur is not bent or twisted. Tighten the quick-release lever or bolt the axle back in place, then spin the wheel by hand to make sure it does not rub on the brake pads or frame.
Lift the bike and spin both wheels to confirm they turn freely and the tire does not wobble side to side. If the wheel rubs or wobbles, remove it and reinstall it, making sure the axle is seated fully in both dropouts. Once everything looks correct, you are ready to ride. Check the tire pressure again after your first ride to make sure it has not lost air, which would indicate a problem with the tube or valve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I cannot get the tire bead off the rim?
The bead may be stuck due to dried sealant or corrosion. Spray the rim and tire junction with water or a penetrating lubricant and wait a few minutes. Work the tire lever around the rim slowly rather than forcing it in one spot. If the tire is very old, the rubber may have hardened; in that case, the tire itself needs replacement.
Can I patch a tube instead of replacing it?
Yes, if the puncture is small (a pinhole or small thorn hole) and the tube is not old or damaged elsewhere. Patch kits work well for single punctures. If the tube has multiple holes, is cracked, or the valve is damaged, replacement is more reliable. Always inspect the tire first to prevent the same puncture from happening again.
How do I know if the tire pressure is correct?
The correct pressure is printed on the sidewall of the tire itself, usually as a range (for example, 80–130 PSI). Use a pump with a built-in gauge and inflate to the middle or upper end of that range for normal riding. Lighter riders may prefer the lower end; heavier riders or those carrying cargo may prefer the higher end.
What if the valve stem leaks after I reinstall the wheel?
The valve may not be seated fully in the rim hole. Remove the wheel, deflate the tube slightly, and check that the valve stem is perpendicular to the rim and pushed all the way through. Reinflate and test. If it still leaks, the valve may be damaged and the tube will need replacement.
Do I need to remove the tire completely to change the tube?
No. You only need to pry one side of the tire bead off the rim to remove and replace the tube. Removing both sides is unnecessary and takes longer. Leave the tire seated on the opposite side of the rim while you work.