What you need before you start

Changing a bicycle tyre requires a few specific tools and materials. You will need two tyre levers (plastic or metal tools that pry the tyre away from the rim), a new inner tube that matches your wheel size, and a bicycle pump. If you are patching a puncture instead of replacing the tube, you will also need a patch kit, which usually includes sandpaper, glue, and adhesive patches.

Before you begin, identify your wheel size. This is printed on the side of the tyre itself — common sizes are 26 inches, 27.5 inches, or 29 inches for mountain bikes, and 700c for road bikes. The inner tube you buy must match this size. You should also check the tyre width, which is printed next to the diameter. A tyre marked 700 x 25c means 700mm diameter and 25mm width.

Work on a flat surface where you can lay the bike on its side or use a bike stand. Remove the wheel from the frame first — for the front wheel, open the quick-release lever or unscrew the axle nuts. For the rear wheel, shift to the smallest cog, open the quick-release or unscrew the axle nuts, and pull the derailleur back to create slack in the chain.

Key Takeaways

  • You need tyre levers, a replacement inner tube or patch kit, and a pump; the inner tube must match your wheel size, which is printed on the tyre sidewall.
  • Remove the wheel from the frame, then use tyre levers to pry one side of the tyre bead away from the rim and slide out the old or damaged tube.
  • Before installing a new tube, check inside the tyre for thorns, glass, or sharp objects that caused the puncture, and run your fingers along the rim tape to ensure it is intact.
  • Inflate the new tube partially by hand or pump before seating it fully in the tyre, then inflate to the pressure printed on the tyre sidewall.
  • Reinstall the wheel, ensuring the brake pads are aligned and the quick-release or axle nuts are tight enough that the wheel does not move.

Removing the tyre from the rim

Once the wheel is off the bike, let out any remaining air by pressing the valve. Insert a tyre lever under the tyre bead — the edge of the tyre that sits in the rim — about 15 centimetres away from the valve. Pry the bead up and over the rim edge. Hook the lever to a spoke or hold it in place with your hand.

Insert the second tyre lever about 30 centimetres away from the first and pry again. Work your way around the wheel, spacing the levers evenly and prying the bead further over the rim with each movement. Once one side of the tyre is completely free, the inner tube will come out with it. You can now remove the tyre completely or leave it on the rim if you are only replacing the tube.

If the tyre is stubborn, do not force it — you risk damaging the rim or pinching the new tube. Instead, work more slowly around the entire circumference, using smaller prying motions. Talcum powder or a small amount of soap on the tyre bead can reduce friction and make removal easier.

Inspecting the tyre and rim before installing a new tube

Before you put a new tube inside, find out what caused the puncture. Run your fingers carefully along the inside of the tyre, feeling for thorns, glass shards, or sharp wire. If you find an object, remove it. If you do not find anything and the puncture was small and round, the cause may have been a pinch flat — damage from hitting a pothole or curb — rather than a foreign object.

Check the rim tape, which is a strip of fabric or plastic that covers the spoke holes on the inside of the rim. If it is torn, cracked, or missing, a spoke hole can puncture the new tube. Replace the rim tape if needed — it is inexpensive and takes a few minutes to wrap around the rim.

Inspect the tyre itself for cuts, bulges, or worn areas. A small puncture can be patched, but a large cut or a bulge in the sidewall means the tyre should be replaced. A worn tyre with a thin tread will puncture more easily and should also be replaced.

Installing the new or patched inner tube

If you are using a new tube, inflate it slightly — just enough so it holds its shape and is not completely flat. This prevents twisting and makes it easier to seat in the tyre. If you are patching an old tube, follow the patch kit instructions: roughen the area around the puncture with sandpaper, apply glue, wait the time specified on the kit, then press the patch firmly onto the hole. Let the glue cure for the time recommended before reinstalling.

Insert the valve through the rim hole first. Then work the tube into the tyre, making sure it sits evenly all the way around and does not twist. The tube should not be pinched between the tyre and rim at any point.

Now reseat the tyre bead onto the rim. Start at the valve and work your way around, using your hands to roll the tyre bead back into the rim channel. The last section, opposite the valve, will be tight — push the valve up into the rim to create slack, then roll the final section into place. You may hear a popping sound as the bead seats; this is normal.

Inflating the tyre to the correct pressure

The correct pressure is printed on the sidewall of the tyre, usually as a range — for example, 80–130 psi (pounds per square inch) or 5.5–9 bar. The range depends on your weight, the load you are carrying, and the terrain. Heavier riders and those carrying cargo use the higher end; lighter riders on smooth roads use the lower end.

Attach your pump to the valve. Most modern bikes use a Presta valve (thin, with a small nut at the top) or a Schrader valve (wider, like a car tyre valve). Make sure your pump head fits the valve type — many pumps have a reversible head that works with both. Inflate slowly and check the pressure with a gauge if your pump has one. Stop when you reach the target pressure.

Press the tyre with your thumb — it should feel firm but have a small amount of give. If it feels rock hard or very soft, check the gauge reading and adjust. Overinflation can cause a blowout; underinflation causes pinch flats and makes pedalling harder.

Reinstalling the wheel on the frame

For the front wheel, align the tyre with the brake pads and slide the axle into the fork dropouts — the slots at the end of the fork. Tighten the quick-release lever or axle nuts firmly. The wheel should not move side to side or wobble when you spin it.

For the rear wheel, pull the derailleur back and slide the chain onto the smallest cog. Align the tyre with the brake pads and slide the axle into the rear dropouts. Make sure the chain is seated on the cog, then tighten the quick-release or axle nuts. Spin the wheel to confirm it does not rub on the frame or brake pads.

Spin each wheel and listen for rubbing. If the tyre touches the brake pads or frame, the wheel may not be seated correctly — remove it and reinstall it. Once both wheels are secure and spin freely, the job is complete.

What to do if the tyre keeps puncturing

If you patch or replace the tube and it punctures again within a short time, the cause is usually still inside the tyre. Repeat the inspection: run your fingers along the entire inside surface, feeling for any sharp object you may have missed. Check the rim tape again — even a small tear can cause repeated punctures.

If you find no object and the rim tape is intact, the tyre itself may be worn or damaged. A thin or cracked tyre will puncture repeatedly and should be replaced. Alternatively, the tyre may be the wrong pressure — too low causes pinch flats, and too high can cause the tube to burst if you hit a pothole.

Some riders use puncture-resistant tyres or tubes with sealant, which can reduce but not eliminate punctures. These are more expensive and heavier, so they are most useful if you ride in areas with many thorns or sharp debris.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I patch a tube instead of replacing it?

Yes. A patch kit is cheaper than a new tube and works well for small punctures. Clean and dry the area, roughen it with sandpaper, apply glue, wait the time on the kit, then press the patch down firmly. Let it cure before reinstalling. Patches work less well on large holes or punctures near the valve.

What if I cannot get the tyre bead off the rim?

Work more slowly around the entire wheel instead of forcing one spot. Talcum powder or a small amount of soapy water on the bead reduces friction. If the tyre is very old and brittle, it may need to be replaced rather than repaired. Never use a screwdriver or sharp tool — you will damage the rim.

How do I know if my tyre is flat or just low on air?

Press the tyre with your thumb. A completely flat tyre will feel soft and the rim may be visible through the tyre. A low tyre feels softer than normal but still has some firmness. Use a pump with a pressure gauge to check the exact reading — if it is below the minimum printed on the tyre, inflate it.

Should I replace the tyre at the same time as the tube?

Only if the tyre is damaged, worn, or cracked. A tyre with a small puncture and good tread can be patched and reused. If the tread is thin, the sidewall is cracked, or there is a large cut, replace the tyre. A worn tyre will puncture more easily and is not safe.

What pressure should I use if the range is wide?

Use the middle of the range as a starting point. If you are a heavier rider or carrying cargo, use the higher end. If you are light or riding on smooth pavement, use the lower end. Experiment to find what feels best — too high makes the ride harsh, and too low makes pedalling harder and increases puncture risk.