A home inspection is a walk-through examination of the house's structure, systems, and condition, usually lasting two to three hours

A home inspection happens after you make an offer on a house but before you close. A licensed inspector examines the roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, appliances, and interior condition. They produce a written report listing what works, what doesn't, and what needs attention soon. You attend the inspection — this is your chance to see the house from a professional's perspective and ask questions while they work.

The inspection is not a pass-or-fail test. It's a detailed inventory of the house's actual condition. You use the report to decide whether to renegotiate the price, ask the seller to fix things, or walk away. Most purchase contracts include an inspection contingency, which means you can back out if the report reveals major problems — though you lose your earnest money deposit if you do.

Key Takeaways

  • Home inspections typically take two to three hours and cover the roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling systems, and visible interior condition.
  • You should attend your inspection and bring a notebook to write down questions and the inspector's observations about repairs or maintenance.
  • The inspector will not move furniture, dig into walls, or test every outlet — they perform a visual, non-destructive examination only.
  • After the inspection, you have a set window (usually 7 to 10 days) to request repairs, ask for a price reduction, or withdraw your offer based on the findings.
  • Some issues are deal-breakers (foundation cracks, major roof damage, failed septic); others are maintenance items the seller may or may not address.

What the inspector will actually examine

The inspector walks through every room and checks visible systems. They look at the roof from the ground and sometimes climb it; they inspect the foundation for cracks; they turn on water, test drains, and look under sinks. They flip light switches, check outlets, and examine the electrical panel. They look at the furnace or heat pump, test the air conditioning, and check the water heater. They open cabinets, look for water stains, check windows and doors, and note any obvious damage or wear.

What they will not do: move heavy furniture, cut into walls, remove outlet covers, test every single outlet, dig into the yard, or operate systems in ways that might damage them. They do not test the septic system or well water unless you pay extra for those services. They do not inspect the pool or hot tub unless you ask. They do not move items in the attic or crawl space — they look at what's visible.

The inspector's job is to spot conditions that affect the house's safety, function, or value. A cracked foundation, a roof near the end of its life, outdated electrical wiring, plumbing leaks, or a failing HVAC system all show up in the report. So do cosmetic issues like chipped paint or worn flooring, though those matter less to your decision.

Why you should be there during the inspection

Attending lets you see the house with a trained eye and ask questions in real time. The inspector can show you where water has leaked, explain what a roof's condition means for its remaining life, or point out why the electrical panel is undersized. You can ask about repair costs, whether something is a safety issue or just wear and tear, and what the priority order should be if multiple things need work.

You also get a sense of the inspector's thoroughness and communication style. If they rush through rooms or seem uninterested in your questions, that's a sign the report may be incomplete. If they explain findings clearly and take time to show you problems, you can trust the report more.

Bring a notebook and write down the inspector's comments about specific items. Take photos of anything they point out as a concern. This record helps you remember details when you're deciding what to negotiate and when you're planning repairs after you buy.

Common findings and what they mean

Most inspections turn up a mix of minor and significant issues. Minor findings include outdated outlets, worn caulk around tubs, missing weatherstripping, or cosmetic damage. These are normal in older homes and usually don't affect your decision to buy.

Moderate findings require attention within a year or two: a roof that's 15 to 20 years old, a water heater nearing the end of its life, or plumbing that works but shows signs of age. You might ask the seller to replace these items, offer a credit toward the cost, or accept them as-is and budget for replacement yourself.

Serious findings can change your decision: foundation cracks that suggest structural movement, a roof that needs replacement now, electrical wiring that poses a fire risk, mold, or evidence of termites. These are the items that trigger renegotiation or withdrawal. A failed septic system, a furnace that doesn't heat, or plumbing that doesn't work are also deal-level issues.

The inspection report and what comes next

The inspector delivers a written report, usually within 24 to 48 hours. It includes photos, descriptions of each system, a list of findings organized by severity, and sometimes repair cost estimates. Read it carefully and highlight items that concern you or that you don't understand.

Your purchase contract specifies a important date — typically 7 to 10 days after the inspection — for you to request repairs or credits. You have three main options: ask the seller to fix the items listed in the report, ask for a price reduction to cover repairs yourself, or withdraw your offer if the findings are severe enough.

The seller is not required to agree to repairs or credits. They can refuse, offer to fix only some items, or offer a smaller credit than you requested. If you can't reach agreement, you can walk away if your contract includes an inspection contingency. If you proceed without one, you're buying the house as-is.

How to prepare before the inspection day

Make sure the seller has unlocked the house and that utilities are on — the inspector needs water, gas, and electricity to test systems. Ask your real estate agent to confirm this the day before.

Arrive a few minutes early so you can meet the inspector and ask if there's anything specific you want them to focus on. If you know the roof is old or you're concerned about the foundation, mention it.

Wear comfortable clothes and shoes you don't mind getting dirty — you may go into the attic or crawl space. Bring a flashlight, notebook, and phone to take photos. Plan to stay for the full inspection; leaving early means you miss explanations and can't ask questions.

Red flags that mean you should walk away

Some findings are serious enough that most buyers withdraw their offer. These include active foundation movement (horizontal cracks, doors that won't close, windows that won't open), major roof damage requiring when ready replacement, evidence of mold in multiple areas, outdated electrical wiring that poses a fire hazard, or a failed septic system.

Also consider the cost and complexity of repairs. If the report lists $30,000 in needed work and the seller won't negotiate, you need to decide whether the house price accounts for that. If you're financing the purchase, your lender may require certain repairs before they'll fund the loan — a failed inspection can delay or block closing.

Trust your instinct. If the inspection reveals more problems than you expected or the seller is uncooperative about addressing them, walking away is a legitimate choice. There will be other houses.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get my own inspector or do I have to use one the seller picks?

You hire and pay for your own inspector — the seller does not choose. Your real estate agent can recommend inspectors in your area. Look for someone licensed in your state with at least five years of experience and good online reviews. You should interview them briefly before hiring to make sure they're responsive and thorough.

What if the inspector finds something but the seller says it's not a problem?

Get a second opinion from a specialist. If the inspector flags electrical issues, hire a licensed electrician to look. If they note foundation concerns, contact a structural engineer. A specialist's report gives you solid ground to renegotiate or walk away. The cost is usually $300 to $800 and is worth it for major findings.

Does the inspection cover the septic system or well?

No — a standard inspection is visual only and covers municipal water and sewer. If the house has a septic system or well, you can pay extra for those to be tested. A septic inspection costs $300 to $500 and involves pumping and camera work. A well test costs $200 to $400 and checks water quality. Ask your agent whether these are common in your area and whether the seller typically covers the cost.

What if I find problems after I close and the inspection didn't catch them?

Once you close, the house is yours as-is. Inspectors carry errors and omissions insurance, but claims are difficult and usually capped at a low amount. This is why attending the inspection, reading the report carefully, and asking follow-up questions matter — it's your final note to catch problems before you own the house.

How much does a home inspection cost?

Cost varies by region and house size, but typically ranges from $300 to $500 for a standard residential inspection. Larger homes or those with additional systems (pool, septic, well) cost more. You pay the inspector directly, and the cost is not refundable even if you withdraw your offer — it's part of the cost of buying a house.