What you need before you start
Laying roof shingles requires specific tools, materials, and safety equipment. You will need a hammer or pneumatic nailer, a utility knife, a tape measure, a chalk line, roofing nails (typically 1.25 inches), and shingles that match your roof pitch and climate zone. Most shingles come in bundles that cover roughly 33 square feet per bundle; calculate your roof area and add 10 percent for waste and mistakes.
Safety equipment is non-negotiable: a harness rated for roof work, a rope or cable anchored to a stable point, rubber-soled boots with good grip, and eye protection. Roofing work happens at height and on a slope. A single misstep can cause serious injury. If you are uncomfortable working at height or your roof pitch is steeper than 6:12 (meaning 6 inches of rise for every 12 inches of horizontal run), hire a professional.
Check the weather forecast. Do not lay shingles in rain, snow, or temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold shingles become brittle and crack; wet conditions prevent proper adhesion. Shingles also stick to your hands and tools in heat above 85 degrees, which slows the work and can damage the shingle backing.
Key Takeaways
- Shingles must be nailed in a specific pattern: four nails per shingle in most climates, six nails in high-wind areas, placed exactly where the manufacturer marks on the shingle.
- The first course (bottom row) is installed upside down as a starter strip, then covered by the first visible row of shingles.
- Each row is offset by half a shingle width so that seams do not line up vertically, which prevents water from running straight down between shingles.
- Nails must go through the shingle and into the wood decking below; nails that miss the decking or sit too high will not hold and will cause the shingle to lift in wind.
- Flashing around chimneys, vents, and valleys requires separate installation and sealing before shingles are laid over it.
Prepare the roof deck and install flashing
Before the first shingle goes down, the roof deck must be clean, dry, and solid. Walk the roof and feel for soft spots or missing sections of plywood. Replace any damaged decking before you start. Sweep away debris, leaves, and dirt so nails sit flush and shingles lay flat.
Install flashing around any penetrations: chimneys, plumbing vents, skylights, and roof valleys. Flashing is metal or rubber that channels water away from these vulnerable spots. Nail the flashing to the deck, then seal the seams with roofing cement or sealant rated for your climate. Shingles will overlap the flashing later, but the flashing must be in place and sealed first. This is where most roof leaks start if done wrong.
Snap a chalk line along the eaves (the bottom edge of the roof) to mark where the starter course will go. This line should be parallel to the eaves and positioned so that the first visible row of shingles will overhang the gutter by about 0.5 inches.
Install the starter course and first row
The starter course is a row of shingles laid upside down along the eaves. Cut the shingles in half lengthwise so you have pieces roughly 18 inches wide. Nail these pieces with the adhesive strip facing up (toward the roof) and the tab edge pointing down toward the gutter. Use four nails per piece, spaced evenly. This inverted row creates a solid base and fills the gaps between the tabs of the first visible row.
Once the starter course is complete, lay the first visible row of shingles right-side up, starting at one end of the roof. Align the bottom edge of the first shingle with the chalk line. Nail four times per shingle: two nails in the upper corners and two nails above the cutouts (the spaces between the tabs). The manufacturer prints small circles or rectangles on the shingle to show exactly where nails should go. Nail through these marks into the wood decking below.
Offset the second row by half a shingle width so that the seams of the second row fall in the middle of the shingles in the first row. This staggered pattern prevents water from running straight down the seams. Continue this offset pattern up the roof.
Nail placement and pattern
Nails are the only thing holding shingles down. A single misplaced nail can cause the shingle to lift, curl, or blow off in wind. Drive nails straight and flush with the shingle surface—not so hard that you dent the shingle, but hard enough that the head sits just below the surface. A nail that sits proud (sticking up) will catch wind and tear the shingle.
In most climates, four nails per shingle is standard: two in the upper corners and two above the cutouts. In high-wind zones (coastal areas, plains, or areas with a history of severe storms), use six nails: add two more nails between the cutouts. Check your local building code or ask your shingle manufacturer which pattern applies to your area.
Nail spacing matters. Nails should be roughly 1 inch from the edge of the shingle and placed where the manufacturer indicates. Nails driven too close to the edge tear through the shingle; nails driven too far from the edge miss the wood decking and do not hold. If a nail misses the decking, pull it out, fill the hole with roofing cement, and drive a new nail 2 inches away from the first hole.
Work your way up the roof in rows
Lay each row parallel to the eaves, working from the bottom of the roof toward the peak. Snap a chalk line every few rows to keep the rows straight. Shingles can shift as you walk on them, and a crooked row becomes obvious by the time you reach the peak.
As you lay each row, the adhesive strip on the back of the shingle will stick to the row below once the sun warms it. Do not count on this adhesive alone to hold the shingle—nails do the holding. The adhesive just seals the seams and prevents wind from lifting the edges.
When you reach roof valleys (the V-shaped channels where two roof slopes meet), lay shingles across the valley and trim them with a utility knife so they fit the valley shape. Seal the cut edges with roofing cement to prevent water from running under the shingles at the valley.
Install shingles around the peak and edges
When you reach the peak (the highest point where two roof slopes meet), the shingles from both sides will meet. Trim the shingles so they fit flush at the peak, then cover the peak with ridge cap shingles. Ridge caps are shingles cut into thirds and folded over the peak. Nail each ridge cap with two nails, one on each side of the peak, positioned so the next ridge cap overlaps and covers the nails.
At the gable ends (the sloped edges of the roof), trim shingles flush with the edge of the roof. Some roofers install metal drip edge along the gable to protect the edge; others seal the cut shingles with roofing cement. Check your local code to see which method is required.
Once all shingles are nailed, walk the roof and check that every nail is flush, every seam is sealed, and no shingles are curling or lifting. Seal any exposed nail heads with roofing cement to prevent water from running down the nail shaft into the decking below.
Seal seams and clean up
After all shingles are laid and nailed, seal the seams where shingles overlap. explore a small dab of roofing cement under the upper edge of each shingle where it overlaps the shingle below. This prevents wind from lifting the edges and water from running under the shingles. You do not need to seal every seam—focus on the first few rows and any seams that look like they might lift in wind.
Remove any debris from the roof: nails, shingle scraps, and packaging. Sweep the gutters and downspouts to clear any shingle granules or debris that fell during installation. Granules are normal—new shingles shed loose granules for the first few months.
If you installed the roof in cool weather, wait for a warm day (above 70 degrees) before walking on the shingles again. Cold shingles are stiff and can crack under foot traffic. Once the shingles warm up, they become flexible and can handle normal foot traffic without damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many nails do I need per shingle?
Most climates require four nails per shingle. High-wind areas require six nails. Check your local building code or the shingle manufacturer's instructions for your specific location. Nails must go through the shingle into the wood decking, not just into the shingle itself.
What happens if I nail a shingle in the wrong spot?
Pull the nail out, fill the hole with roofing cement, and drive a new nail at least 2 inches away from the first hole. Do not leave empty nail holes—water will run down the nail shaft into the decking and cause rot.
Can I lay shingles in cold weather?
Shingles become brittle below 50 degrees Fahrenheit and will crack when nailed or walked on. Wait for warmer weather. If you must work in cold, store shingles indoors and bring them out one bundle at a time so they stay warm.
How long does it take to roof a house?
A typical single-story house takes two to three days for one person working alone. A two-story house takes four to six days. Speed depends on roof pitch, complexity (valleys and vents slow you down), and your experience level. Do not rush—mistakes made while hurrying cost more to fix than the time you save.
Do I need to remove the old shingles before laying new ones?
Building codes in most places allow one layer of new shingles over one layer of old shingles. If there are already two layers, you must remove the old shingles down to the deck. Laying shingles over more than two layers creates too much weight and prevents proper nailing.