The basic steps to change your wallpaper

Wallpaper is a layer of material glued to your walls, and removing it is usually the first step before you can change it. The process differs depending on whether your wallpaper is traditional paper-backed or modern vinyl, and how long it has been on the wall. Most wallpaper comes off more easily if you soften the adhesive first — either with water, a commercial remover, or steam.

Once the old wallpaper is gone, you will need to prepare the wall surface, measure and cut your new wallpaper, and hang it. The entire job typically takes a weekend for a single room, though drying time between steps can extend that. If you rent, check your lease first — many landlords prohibit wallpaper installation or require professional removal when you leave.

Key Takeaways

  • Removing old wallpaper requires softening the adhesive with water, remover solution, or steam before you can peel it away.
  • After removal, sand and prime the wall to create a smooth surface for new wallpaper to stick properly.
  • Measure your walls and cut wallpaper strips before hanging, leaving a few inches extra at top and bottom for trimming.
  • Vinyl wallpaper is easier to remove later than traditional paper-backed wallpaper, which matters if you rent or change your mind frequently.

Removing old wallpaper without damaging the wall

Start by testing a corner of the wallpaper to see if it peels away dry. If it does not, you need to soften the adhesive. The simplest method is hot water mixed with fabric softener or a commercial wallpaper remover — spray or sponge it onto the wall and wait 15 to 20 minutes for the adhesive to loosen. Score the wallpaper lightly with a scoring tool first (a tool with small wheels that punctures the surface without cutting into drywall) so the liquid can reach the adhesive underneath.

Once the adhesive is soft, use a plastic scraper — never metal, which gouges drywall — to lift the wallpaper away from the wall. Work slowly and at a low angle. If the wallpaper resists, apply more remover and wait longer rather than forcing it. For stubborn adhesive, a steam wallpaper stripper (which you can rent from hardware stores) works faster, though it requires care not to damage the wall or yourself with the heat.

After the wallpaper is off, wash the wall with clean water to remove any remaining adhesive residue, then let it dry completely. Sand any rough spots smooth and fill holes or gouges with spackling compound. Prime the wall with a primer designed for wallpaper — this seals the wall surface and helps new wallpaper stick evenly.

Measuring and cutting wallpaper for your walls

Measure the height of your wall from baseboard to ceiling and add 2 inches at the top and bottom for trimming. Measure the width of your wall and divide by the width of your wallpaper roll to find how many strips you need. Most wallpaper comes in rolls 27 inches wide, though some specialty wallpaper is wider or narrower.

If your wallpaper has a pattern, you will need to account for pattern repeat — the distance between where the pattern starts over. Check the roll label for this measurement. Cut strips so the pattern aligns when you hang them side by side. This means you may waste some material, so buy an extra roll if your pattern repeat is large or your walls are tall.

Lay out all your cut strips on a clean, flat surface before you start hanging. Number them in order so you know which strip goes where. This prevents mistakes and saves time once you start pasting.

Hanging wallpaper step by step

Start at a corner or a prominent wall and work outward. Use a plumb line (a string with a weight) to mark a vertical line on the wall — wallpaper must hang straight, not follow the corner, which is rarely perfectly vertical. Measure from this line one wallpaper width to the left and mark another vertical line. This is where your first strip will go.

Apply wallpaper paste to the back of your first strip using a paint roller or brush, or use pre-pasted wallpaper and activate it by soaking in water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Position the strip at the top of the wall, leaving 2 inches extra at the ceiling. Use a smoothing tool or plastic squeegee to push out air bubbles, working from the center outward toward the edges. Trim the excess at the top and bottom with a utility knife and a straightedge.

Hang the next strip directly beside the first, matching the pattern if there is one. Continue across the wall, checking frequently with a level to make sure strips are plumb. At corners and around windows or doors, cut the wallpaper to fit and overlap slightly if needed, then trim with a sharp knife.

Dealing with corners, windows, and obstacles

Inside corners are the trickiest part of wallpaper installation. Measure the distance from the last full strip to the corner, add 1 inch, and cut a strip to that width. Hang it so it wraps slightly around the corner. Then measure the remaining width needed to reach the next corner and cut a new strip to that width, starting fresh on the other wall. This prevents the wallpaper from pulling away at the corner seam.

For windows and doors, hang the wallpaper over the opening and trim it out afterward. Use a utility knife to cut diagonally from the corner of the opening to the corner of the wallpaper, then fold the flaps down and trim along the frame. This creates a neat, fitted edge.

Outlets and light switches should have the power turned off at the breaker before you work around them. Hang the wallpaper over the outlet, cut an X over it, fold the flaps inside, and trim. You can remove the outlet cover plate after the wallpaper dries to hide the seams.

Choosing between vinyl and paper wallpaper

Vinyl wallpaper has a plastic coating that makes it water-resistant and durable in kitchens and bathrooms. It is also easier to remove later — vinyl peels away in large sheets without needing much softening. Traditional paper-backed wallpaper is thinner and can show seams less noticeably, but it tears more easily during installation and removal.

Fabric-backed wallpaper is heavier and hides wall imperfections better, but it is harder to remove and more expensive. Grasscloth and textured wallpapers add visual interest but are harder to clean and can trap dust. For a first-time installation, vinyl is the most forgiving choice.

Common mistakes to avoid

Hanging wallpaper on an unprepared wall — one that is not primed or still has adhesive residue — causes bubbles and peeling. Take time to sand, fill, and prime before you start. Rushing the drying time between steps also causes problems; wallpaper paste needs time to set, and hanging new wallpaper before the primer is fully dry weakens the bond.

Using too much paste creates a mess and makes the wallpaper slide around while you are trying to position it. Using too little causes bubbles and loose seams. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for paste amount. Cutting strips too short or not accounting for pattern repeat wastes material and creates visible gaps or mismatched patterns.

Hanging wallpaper in very hot or very cold conditions affects how the paste sets. Ideal conditions are between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity. Extreme temperatures or very dry air can cause the wallpaper to shrink or the paste to dry too fast.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I hang new wallpaper over old wallpaper?

Not reliably. Old wallpaper can peel away and take the new layer with it, creating bubbles and loose seams. Removing the old wallpaper first takes extra time but gives you a much better result. The only exception is if the old wallpaper is in perfect condition, fully adhered, and has a smooth surface — even then, priming is essential.

How long does wallpaper paste take to dry?

Most wallpaper paste dries in 24 to 48 hours, though this varies by brand, humidity, and temperature. Do not wash the walls or move furniture against them during this time. The wallpaper will feel dry to the touch much sooner, but the adhesive underneath is still setting.

What should I do if wallpaper starts peeling after I hang it?

If peeling starts within the first few days, the paste may not have been applied evenly or the wall may not have been primed properly. Lift the peeling edge, apply fresh paste underneath with a small brush, press it back down, and smooth out bubbles. If peeling happens months or years later, the adhesive has failed and that section will need to be re-hung.

Do I need special tools to hang wallpaper?

Basic tools include a paint roller or brush for paste, a smoothing tool or squeegee, a utility knife, a straightedge, a level, a plumb line, and a plastic scraper. A scoring tool makes removing old wallpaper easier but is not essential. Most of these cost under $20 total, and you may already have some at home.

Can I remove wallpaper without damaging the paint underneath?

If the wall was painted before the wallpaper was hung, the paint usually stays intact during removal. However, if the wallpaper was hung directly on bare drywall, the paper facing of the drywall can tear when you remove the wallpaper. This is why priming before hanging new wallpaper matters — it protects the wall surface.