What you need before you start
Changing a bike tyre requires a few tools you can buy cheaply and keep in a repair kit. You will need two or three tyre levers (plastic or metal tools that pry the tyre off the rim), a new or repaired inner tube, and a pump. Some people also carry a patch kit as backup, though replacing the tube is usually faster. If you have a quick-release axle on your wheel (a lever you flip rather than a bolt you turn), you can remove the wheel without tools. If your bike has bolt-on axles, bring an appropriately sized wrench.
Before you start, check what size tyre and tube your bike uses. This information is printed on the side of the tyre itself — it will look like "700x25c" or "26x2.0" depending on your bike type. Write this down or take a photo so you buy the correct replacement tube. The tube size must match the tyre size, or it will not seal properly.
Key Takeaways
- Remove the wheel by opening the quick-release lever or unbolting the axle, then use tyre levers to pry the tyre bead away from the rim and slide out the old tube.
- Inspect the inside of the tyre for thorns, glass, or sharp objects before installing a new tube, because the same puncture will happen again if you miss the cause.
- Seat the new tube inside the tyre by hand first, then use the pump to inflate it gradually while checking that the tyre bead sits evenly on both sides of the rim.
- Reinstall the wheel, making sure the brake caliper or disc is properly aligned and the quick-release or bolts are tight enough that the wheel does not move.
Removing the wheel from the frame
If your bike has a quick-release axle, open the lever on one side of the wheel. The lever should swing outward 180 degrees. On the opposite side, you may see a small bolt or a fixed nut — turn it counterclockwise one or two full rotations to loosen it slightly, then flip the quick-release lever closed again. This loosens the axle enough to slide the wheel out. Do not remove the bolt completely; you only need to loosen it enough that the wheel lifts free.
If your bike has bolt-on axles, use a wrench to turn the bolt on each side counterclockwise until the wheel is loose enough to lift out by hand. Keep the bolts in a small container so you do not lose them. For the rear wheel, you may need to shift the chain to the smallest sprocket first, then pull the derailleur back to create slack so the wheel slides out cleanly.
Removing the tyre and old tube
Lay the wheel flat on the ground or hold it steady. Insert a tyre lever under the tyre bead (the edge of the tyre that sits on the rim) at a point away from the valve. Pry gently until the bead lifts over the rim edge. Slide the lever around the rim to free one side of the tyre completely, or use a second lever and work your way around. Do not force it — if the tyre is very tight, loosen the valve slightly to release any remaining air pressure.
Once one side of the tyre is free, reach in and pull out the old tube. Set it aside. You do not need to remove the other side of the tyre yet — you can install the new tube while the tyre is still partially seated on the rim. This makes the job easier because the tyre will not flop around.
Inspecting the tyre for damage
Before you install a new tube, run your fingers carefully along the inside surface of the tyre. Feel for thorns, glass shards, sharp wire, or anything else that punctured the old tube. If you find something, remove it. If you do not find and remove the cause, the new tube will puncture in the same spot within a few kilometres.
Also check the rim tape — the strip of material that covers the spoke holes on the inside of the rim. If the tape is torn or missing, the spoke ends can puncture the tube. If you see damage, wrap new rim tape around the rim before installing the new tube. Rim tape is inexpensive and prevents a common source of flats.
Installing the new tube
Inflate the new tube slightly — just enough that it holds its shape and is not completely flat. This makes it easier to seat inside the tyre without twisting or pinching. Slide the tube into the tyre, starting at the valve and working your way around. Make sure the tube is not twisted and sits evenly inside the tyre all the way around.
Once the tube is in place, use your hands to push the tyre bead back onto the rim, working your way around the wheel. Start opposite the valve and work toward it last, because the valve area is usually the tightest. If the tyre is difficult to seat, loosen the valve slightly to let air escape, then push the bead on. Do not use tyre levers to push the bead on — you risk pinching the new tube.
Inflating the tyre to the correct pressure
Attach your pump to the valve and inflate slowly. As you pump, watch both sides of the tyre to make sure the bead is seating evenly on the rim. The tyre should look symmetrical — if one side bulges more than the other, stop, loosen the valve slightly, and work the tyre bead by hand until it sits straight. Then continue pumping.
Check the tyre sidewall for the correct pressure range — it will say something like "80–130 psi" or "3–5 bar". Road bike tyres usually need higher pressure (80–130 psi), while mountain bike tyres need lower pressure (25–50 psi). Inflate to the middle of the recommended range unless you have a reason to go higher or lower. Once you reach the target pressure, remove the pump and check that the valve is tight.
Reinstalling the wheel on the frame
For the front wheel, open the brake quick-release (if your bike has rim brakes) or move the disc brake caliper out of the way. Slide the wheel into the fork, making sure the axle sits fully in both dropouts — the slots at the end of the fork. Close the quick-release lever or tighten the bolts. The wheel should not move side to side when you try to wiggle it.
For the rear wheel, pull the derailleur back and slide the wheel into the chain and frame dropouts. Make sure the chain sits on the smallest sprocket and the wheel is centered between the chainstays. Close the quick-release or tighten the bolts. Spin the wheel to make sure it does not rub on the brake pads or frame. If it does, the wheel is not seated straight — remove it and try again.
Testing the repair before you ride
Spin each wheel by hand to make sure it turns freely and does not rub on the brakes or frame. Squeeze the tyre with your hand — it should feel firm and hold its shape. If it feels soft or squishy, the pressure is too low; if it feels rock hard, you may have overinflated it. Check the pressure with a gauge if you have one, or add or release air as needed.
Before you ride, apply the brakes and make sure they stop the wheel smoothly. Check that the quick-release levers or bolts are tight by trying to move the wheel side to side — it should not budge. Once everything feels solid, you are ready to ride.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a tube and a tubeless tyre?
A traditional bike uses a tube — an inner rubber bladder that holds air inside the tyre. A tubeless tyre has no separate tube; instead, the tyre itself seals against the rim. Tubeless tyres are more common on mountain bikes and high-end road bikes. If your bike is tubeless, you cannot use this guide — you will need to reseal the tyre bead or patch the tyre itself.
Can I patch a tube instead of replacing it?
Yes, if the puncture is small and you have a patch kit. Clean the area around the hole, roughen it with the sandpaper in the kit, apply the adhesive, wait the recommended time, then press the patch firmly onto the hole. Patches work well for small punctures but are slower than swapping tubes. Many people carry a patch kit as backup in case they get a second flat before reaching home.
How tight should the quick-release lever be?
The lever should require firm hand pressure to close — you should not be able to flip it with one finger. If it closes too easily, the wheel is not tight enough and could shift during riding. If it is so tight you cannot close it by hand, loosen the bolt on the opposite side slightly and try again.
What if the tyre keeps going flat after I change the tube?
You likely missed the cause of the puncture — a thorn, glass, or sharp object still inside the tyre. Remove the wheel again and inspect the inside of the tyre very carefully, running your fingers slowly all the way around. Also check the rim tape for tears. If you find nothing, the problem may be the valve itself; try a different tube to rule that out.
Do I need to remove both sides of the tyre?
No. You can install a new tube while one side of the tyre is still seated on the rim. This is actually easier because the tyre stays in place and does not flop around. You only need to remove the second side if you are patching the tyre itself or inspecting it for damage.