You can change your car's oil yourself in about 30 to 45 minutes with basic tools

An oil change is one of the most straightforward maintenance tasks you can do on your own. You'll need an oil drain pan, a wrench to fit your drain plug, an oil filter wrench, new oil, a new oil filter, and jack stands if your car sits low to the ground. The job involves draining the old oil, replacing the filter, adding new oil, and checking the level — all tasks that don't require special training or expensive equipment.

The hardest part is usually accessing the drain plug underneath your car. Once you're under there, the rest follows a simple sequence. Most people find it easier the second time, once they know where everything is on their specific vehicle.

Key Takeaways

  • Drain the old oil while it's warm (but not hot) so it flows out faster and carries away more dirt and sludge.
  • Replace the oil filter every time you change oil, and hand-tighten it only — over-tightening makes it impossible to remove next time.
  • Check your owner's manual for the correct oil type and capacity, because using the wrong viscosity can damage your engine.
  • Run the engine for a minute after refilling, then wait five minutes and check the level again, because the filter holds some oil.

Gather your materials before you start

You need new oil (the type and amount specified in your owner's manual), a new oil filter that matches your vehicle, an oil drain pan, a wrench sized to fit your drain plug (usually 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm), an oil filter wrench, a jack and jack stands if your car is low, and rags or paper towels. Some people also use a funnel to avoid spilling oil into the engine bay.

Buy the oil and filter before you start — don't assume you have the right ones. The oil type matters: a 5W-30 engine will not run the same on 10W-40, and using the wrong grade can reduce fuel economy or cause engine wear. Your owner's manual lists both the viscosity and the capacity (usually between 4 and 6 quarts for most cars).

Warm the engine and raise the car safely

Start your engine and let it idle for two or three minutes, then turn it off. Warm oil flows faster and drains more completely than cold oil, carrying away more of the dirt and sludge that collects at the bottom of the pan. Do not let it get hot enough to burn you — you'll be working under the car in a moment.

Once the engine has cooled slightly, locate the drain plug underneath the engine (your manual shows where). If your car sits low, use a jack to raise it, then place jack stands under the frame rails — never work under a car supported only by a jack. Chock the wheels with blocks or bricks so the car cannot roll. If you can fit under the car safely without raising it, skip the jack.

Drain the old oil and replace the filter

Position your drain pan under the plug, then use your wrench to loosen it by hand. Once it's loose enough, unscrew it the rest of the way by hand and let it fall into the pan — the oil will be warm, so be careful. Let the pan sit for five to ten minutes while the last of the oil drains out.

While you wait, locate the oil filter (usually a cylindrical canister on the side of the engine). Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it, then unscrew it by hand. Wipe the rubber gasket surface on the engine block clean with a rag. Take your new filter, apply a thin layer of new oil to the rubber gasket (the ring at the top), then screw it on by hand until the gasket touches the block, then turn it another three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct.

Reinstall the drain plug and refill with new oil

Wipe the drain plug clean and screw it back in by hand, then use your wrench to tighten it. You want it snug, not cranked down hard — over-tightening strips the threads in the pan and creates a leak that's expensive to fix. If your plug has a crush washer (a soft metal ring), replace it with a new one each time.

Lower the car back to the ground if you raised it. Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (it usually says "OIL" on it), unscrew it, and place your funnel in the opening. Pour in the amount of oil your manual specifies, usually in half-quart increments. Start with one quart less than the full amount, then check the level before adding the last bit.

Check the oil level and run the engine

Screw the filler cap back on. Start the engine and let it idle for about one minute — this circulates the new oil through the engine and fills the new filter. Turn off the engine and wait five minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan, because the filter holds about a quart of oil that drains back down slowly.

Pull out the dipstick (a long rod with markings on it), wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it all the way, then pull it out again and read the level. The oil should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If it's low, add a little more and check again. If it's overfull, you'll need to drain a small amount — overfilled oil can damage seals and cause leaks.

Dispose of old oil properly

Old motor oil is toxic and cannot go in the trash or down the drain. Most auto parts stores that sell oil will take used oil for free, even if you didn't buy it from them. Some gas stations and quick-lube shops also accept it. Pour your used oil into a clean, sealed container (an old oil jug works well) and take it to one of these locations.

The oil filter can usually go in the trash, but some recycling centers prefer you to drain it first and recycle the metal canister. Call your local waste facility to ask what they prefer.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change my oil?

Check your owner's manual — it varies by vehicle and engine type. Older cars often needed a change every 3,000 miles, but modern engines with synthetic oil can go 7,500 to 10,000 miles or longer. Some manufacturers specify time-based intervals (every six months) if you don't drive much. Follow what your manual says, not what an oil company advertises.

Can I use synthetic oil instead of conventional?

Yes, if your manual allows it. Synthetic oil lasts longer and handles extreme temperatures better, but it costs more per quart. You can switch from conventional to synthetic at any time — they mix fine. Once you switch to synthetic, you don't have to stay with it, though most people do because of the longer drain intervals.

What if I spill oil on the driveway?

Absorb it immediately with kitty litter, sand, or oil absorbent material, then sweep it up. For old stains, a degreaser and a stiff brush work, but fresh spills are much easier to clean. Never hose it into the storm drain — it goes to rivers and streams.

Do I need to change the oil filter every time?

Yes. The filter traps dirt and debris, and a clogged filter restricts oil flow. Replacing it at every oil change is standard practice and costs far less than an engine repair.

What if the drain plug is stuck and won't loosen?

Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 minutes, then try again. If it still won't budge, tap the wrench gently with a hammer to break the corrosion loose. If it strips or breaks, you may need a professional to extract it and repair the pan threads.