You can replace a bathroom sink faucet yourself in two to four hours with basic tools

Replacing a faucet is one of the most straightforward plumbing projects a homeowner can do. You need an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver, and a bucket to catch water. The job involves shutting off the water supply under the sink, disconnecting the old faucet, and installing the new one. Most people without plumbing experience can complete this work, though you may want a second person to help hold things steady underneath the sink.

The hardest part is usually removing the old faucet if it has been in place for years — corrosion can make connections stubborn. If you run into a connection you cannot loosen after ten minutes of steady effort, stop and call a plumber rather than risk cracking the sink or supply lines.

Key Takeaways

  • Shut off the water supply valves under the sink before you disconnect anything, and turn on the faucet to release pressure in the lines.
  • Take a photo of how the old faucet connects before you remove it, so you know where each supply line and drain component goes.
  • Most new faucets come with instructions specific to that model — read them before you start, because mounting methods vary.
  • If a connection will not loosen after steady effort, stop and call a plumber instead of forcing it and risking damage to the sink or pipes.

Turn off the water and drain the lines

Look under the sink and locate the two shutoff valves on the hot and cold water supply lines. They are usually oval knobs or small levers attached to the copper or plastic pipes coming up from the wall or floor. Turn both valves clockwise (or flip levers to the off position) until they stop. Do not force them — they should turn smoothly.

Once the valves are closed, go back to the sink and turn on the faucet. Let it run until no water comes out. This releases the pressure in the lines and empties the pipes so you do not have water dripping on you while you work. Place a bucket under the connections you are about to disconnect, because a small amount of water will still be trapped in the supply lines.

Disconnect the supply lines and drain connection

Under the sink, you will see two flexible hoses (usually braided metal or rubber) connected to the shutoff valves. These are the hot and cold supply lines. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the nut where each hose connects to the valve. Turn counterclockwise. Once the nut is loose enough, you can usually unscrew it by hand. Do this for both hot and cold lines.

Next, locate where the drain line connects to the faucet. This is usually a large nut holding a metal or plastic piece called the tailpiece. Loosen this nut with your wrench, turning counterclockwise. You may also see a clip or bracket holding the faucet body to the sink — remove this as well. Take a photo of the whole setup before you remove anything else, so you remember how it all fits together.

Remove the old faucet from the sink

Most bathroom faucets are held to the sink from above by nuts underneath the sink. Reach up under the sink and locate these mounting nuts (usually two or three of them). Use your wrench to loosen them, turning counterclockwise. As you loosen each nut, the faucet will start to move. Once all nuts are loose, you can pull the old faucet up and out of the sink from above.

If the faucet does not come free easily, it may be sealed with old caulk or mineral buildup. Use a utility knife to cut around the base of the faucet where it meets the sink, then try again. If the mounting nuts are corroded and will not turn, apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 minutes, then try again. Do not use excessive force — if it still will not budge, stop and call a plumber.

Clean the sink and prepare for the new faucet

Once the old faucet is out, you will see the holes in the sink where it was mounted. Clean away any old caulk, mineral deposits, or debris with a utility knife and a damp cloth. Wipe the area dry. If your new faucet has a different number of holes than the old one (for example, the old faucet used three holes but the new one uses two), you may need to cover the extra holes with a trim ring or escutcheon plate, which usually comes with the new faucet.

Read the installation instructions that came with your new faucet before you proceed. Different faucet models mount differently — some use a rubber gasket, others use a metal washer, and some use a clip system. Knowing which method your faucet uses will save you time and frustration.

Install the new faucet and reconnect the supply lines

Insert the new faucet through the holes in the sink from above. From underneath, slide the rubber gasket and metal washer onto the faucet body (or use whatever mounting hardware came with your faucet). Hand-tighten the mounting nuts, then use your wrench to tighten them firmly — do not over-tighten, as this can crack the sink. The faucet should be snug and not move when you push on it.

Now reconnect the supply lines. Take the hot water line and screw it onto the hot water port on the new faucet (usually marked with red or labeled H). Tighten by hand first, then use your wrench to snug it down. Repeat with the cold water line on the cold port (usually marked with blue or labeled C). Reconnect the drain line to the tailpiece underneath the faucet using the large nut you removed earlier.

Test for leaks and adjust as needed

Turn the shutoff valves back on by turning them counterclockwise (or flipping levers to the on position). Turn on the faucet and let water run for 30 seconds. Check all the connections you just made — under the sink, at the supply lines, and at the drain — for any drips or leaks. If you see water dripping, turn the shutoff valves back off and tighten the connection a quarter turn with your wrench. Then turn the water back on and check again.

If water is leaking from under the faucet where it meets the sink, the gasket may not be seated properly. Turn off the water, loosen the mounting nuts slightly, and reseat the gasket, then tighten again. Once everything is dry and no leaks are visible after five minutes of running water, you are done. Clean up any tools and the area under the sink, and your new faucet is ready to use.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the shutoff valves under my sink do not work?

If the valves will not turn or water keeps running, you will need to shut off the main water supply to your house. This is usually a valve near your water meter or where the main line enters your home. If you cannot locate it or it will not turn, call a plumber before proceeding — working on the faucet with water pressure still in the lines can cause flooding.

Can I use the old supply lines with the new faucet?

You can reuse them if they are in good condition and not kinked or cracked. However, if they are more than 10 years old or show any signs of wear, it is worth replacing them with new braided supply lines — they cost $10 to $20 per pair and are much easier to install than dealing with a burst line later.

What if my new faucet has a different number of mounting holes than my sink?

Most new faucets come with a trim ring or escutcheon plate to cover extra holes. If yours did not, you can purchase one separately at any hardware store for $5 to $15. If your new faucet needs more holes than your sink has, you will need a plumber to drill them.

Do I need plumber's putty or caulk around the base of the new faucet?

Check your faucet's instructions — some require it, others do not. If your instructions call for it, apply a thin bead of plumber's putty or silicone caulk around the base where the faucet meets the sink after installation. Wipe away excess with a damp cloth before it dries.

How tight should I make the mounting nuts?

Tighten them firmly so the faucet does not move, but do not use all your strength — you are tightening a nut, not wrestling it. If you over-tighten, you risk cracking the sink or stripping the threads. A quarter turn past hand-tight is usually enough.