What You Need Before You Start
Changing acoustic guitar strings takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you have the right tools. You will need a new set of acoustic guitar strings (typically six strings, though some guitars have twelve), a string winder (optional but speeds up the process), wire cutters, and a tuner. A string winder is a small hand tool that costs $5 to $15 and turns the tuning pegs for you instead of your hand doing it — it saves time and reduces hand strain, but you can change strings without one.
Before you start, lay out your workspace on a flat surface where the guitar will not roll. Have a trash bin nearby because you will have six old strings to dispose of. If your guitar has a pickguard (the plastic sheet below the sound hole on many acoustic guitars), you may want to remove it first to avoid scratching it while you work, though this is not required.
Key Takeaways
- Remove all six old strings at once by loosening the tuning pegs until the strings go slack, then pull them out of the bridge and tuning head.
- Clean the fretboard and body while the strings are off, since you cannot reach these areas easily once new strings are on.
- Insert new strings into the bridge pins first, then thread them through the tuning pegs and wind them until they are tight.
- New strings take 24 to 48 hours to fully settle, so expect them to go out of tune several times before they stabilize.
- Winding the strings correctly — three wraps below the peg and two above — prevents them from slipping during tuning.
Removing the Old Strings
Loosen all six tuning pegs (the knobs at the top of the guitar head) by turning them counterclockwise. Turn them until the strings are completely slack — you should be able to pull them away from the fretboard without resistance. This usually takes 30 to 60 seconds per string if you are doing it by hand, or about 10 seconds per string if you use a string winder.
Once the strings are slack, remove the bridge pins. These are the small wooden or plastic pegs that sit on top of the bridge (the piece of wood on the body where the strings attach). Pull them straight up and out — they should come free without much force. If they are stuck, gently rock them side to side as you pull. Set them aside in a safe place; you will reuse them with the new strings.
Pull the old strings out of the bridge holes and out of the tuning pegs. Discard them. Now is the time to clean the fretboard and the body of the guitar with a soft, dry cloth, since you have full access and the strings are not in the way.
Installing the Bridge Pins and New Strings
Take your first new string (the thickest one, called the low E string) and insert it into the bridge hole closest to the thickest string's original position. Push it in until it stops — the string will rest against the bridge pin hole. Do not insert the bridge pin yet.
Pull the string up and over the nut (the small ridge at the top of the fretboard where the strings rest) and thread it through the tuning peg hole for that string. Leave about 2 to 3 inches of slack between the nut and the tuning peg. Now insert the bridge pin into the hole, pushing it down until it is snug. The bridge pin holds the string in place at the bridge.
Repeat this process for all six strings, working from the thickest to the thinnest. Once all six strings are threaded through the tuning pegs and the bridge pins are in place, you are ready to tighten them.
Winding the Strings Onto the Tuning Pegs
Start with the low E string (the thickest one). Hold the string taut with one hand and turn the tuning peg counterclockwise with the other hand (or with the string winder). As you turn, the string will wrap around the peg post. Wind it so that the string wraps downward on the peg — this means the wraps should go toward the bottom of the peg post, not upward.
Wind until you have about three wraps below the point where the string enters the peg hole, then stop. The string should now be fairly tight. Repeat this for the other five strings. For the three thinner strings on the treble side (the high E, B, and G strings), you can do two wraps instead of three — thinner strings hold tension better and do not need as many wraps to stay in place.
Once all strings are wound, use your tuner to bring each string up to pitch. Start with the low E string and work your way up. The strings will be very sharp (too high in pitch) at first, so turn the tuning pegs clockwise to lower the pitch until the tuner shows the correct note. This is the opposite direction from winding — you are now fine-tuning rather than winding.
Why New Strings Go Out of Tune Quickly
New acoustic strings take time to settle into their final tension. For the first 24 to 48 hours, they will stretch slightly and lose pitch. You may need to retune them several times during the first day. This is normal and does not mean you wound them incorrectly.
After 48 hours, the strings will have settled and will hold their tuning much more consistently. If a string continues to slip or go sharp after a week, check that the bridge pin is seated properly and that your winding is correct — the wraps should be neat and not overlapping.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is winding the string upward instead of downward on the peg post. If you wind upward, the string wraps will overlap and the string will slip. Always wind so the wraps go toward the bottom of the peg post. If you have already wound a string this way, unwind it and start over.
Another mistake is leaving too much slack between the nut and the tuning peg. If you leave more than 3 inches, the string will take many more wraps to reach pitch, and the extra wraps make the string more likely to slip. Aim for 2 to 3 inches of slack before you start winding.
Do not over-tighten the bridge pins. They should be snug but not forced. If you push them in too hard, you risk cracking the bridge or the pins themselves. Push them down until they are seated and stop.
When to Replace Your Strings
Acoustic guitar strings typically last 3 to 6 months with regular playing, though this varies based on how often you play and how hard you play. Signs that your strings need replacement include a dull, muted tone, visible rust or discoloration on the wound strings, or strings that will not hold pitch even after tuning. If you play several times a week, plan to change strings every 3 to 4 months. If you play occasionally, they may last 6 months or longer.
Some players change strings one at a time to avoid having to remove the bridge pins and clean the fretboard every time. This is faster but means you never get a chance to clean the fretboard. Changing all six at once takes longer but gives you a chance to maintain your guitar properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I change one string at a time instead of all six?
Yes. Loosen one tuning peg, remove the bridge pin for that string, pull out the old string, and insert the new one the same way you would if changing all six. The advantage is speed — you do not have to remove the bridge pins for the other strings. The disadvantage is that you cannot clean the fretboard or bridge area while the strings are off.
What if a string breaks while I am winding it?
Stop winding immediately and remove the broken string. Insert a new string and start over. Strings rarely break during winding if you are not over-tightening, but if one does, it is not a sign that you did something wrong — manufacturing defects happen.
How tight should the bridge pins be?
Push them down until they are snug and the string is held firmly in place. You should not be able to pull the string out easily, but you also should not have to force the pin down hard. If you have to use a tool or a lot of hand strength, you are pushing too hard.
Do I need to buy a string winder?
No. A string winder saves time and reduces hand fatigue, but you can wind strings by hand. If you change strings once every few months, a string winder is optional. If you change strings frequently or have hand pain, it is worth the small cost.
Why do my new strings sound different from the old ones?
New strings are brighter and have more sustain than old strings. This brightness fades over time as the strings age and lose some of their elasticity. After a few days, new strings will sound closer to what you are used to, though they will remain brighter than very old strings for several weeks.