You can replace a kitchen faucet in two to four hours with basic tools

A kitchen faucet replacement is one of the most straightforward plumbing projects a homeowner can do. You do not need a plumber license or special training — just a wrench, a bucket, and patience. The job breaks into three parts: shutting off the water, removing the old faucet, and installing the new one. Most of the time spent is waiting for water to drain or letting sealant cure, not active work.

The hardest part is usually getting your hands into the tight space under the sink. If you have arthritis, limited mobility, or a very cramped cabinet, this is worth paying someone to do. Otherwise, the cost of the faucet itself (usually $50 to $300 depending on quality) is the real expense — labor is something you can handle.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply valves under the sink first; if they do not work, you will need to shut off the main water valve to the house.
  • Disconnect the supply lines and drain line, then unbolt the old faucet from underneath the sink deck.
  • Install the new faucet by reversing the process: bolt it down, reconnect the lines, and test for leaks before you call the job done.
  • Most faucets come with instructions specific to that model; follow those over general advice if they conflict.
  • If you strip a bolt or crack the sink deck, stop and call a plumber rather than trying to force it.

Gather your tools and materials before you start

You will need an adjustable wrench or a basin wrench (a specialized tool that fits into tight spaces), a bucket or towels to catch water, and a flashlight or headlamp. Have your new faucet on hand and read its instructions before you begin — different models have different connection types and mounting hardware.

If the old faucet has a sprayer hose, you will also need to disconnect that. Some faucets have a weight on the hose that sits in the cabinet; do not lose it. Keep all the hardware from your old faucet in a small container until you are certain the new one works, in case you need to return it or troubleshoot.

Turn off the water and drain the lines

Look under the sink for two small valves on the hot and cold supply lines. Turn both clockwise until they stop — do not force them. These are your shutoff valves. If they do not turn or if water still flows after you turn them, you will need to shut off the main water valve to the house (usually in the basement, crawlspace, or outside) and call a plumber to replace those valves later.

Once the valves are closed, turn on the faucet at the sink to release pressure and let any remaining water drain. Place a bucket or towels under the connections you are about to disconnect. Water will still come out — this is normal and expected.

Disconnect the supply lines and drain

Using your wrench, loosen the nuts that connect the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet. These are usually located directly under the faucet, on the underside of the sink deck. Turn counterclockwise and let the water drain into your bucket. Once they are loose enough, you can usually unscrew them by hand.

If your sink has a drain line connected to the faucet (some do, some do not), loosen that connection as well. Wipe up any water that spills. Now look at the top of the sink, where the faucet comes through the deck. Most faucets are held down by bolts or a mounting ring underneath — you will need to reach under the sink and unbolt them.

Remove the old faucet and clean the deck

Using your basin wrench or adjustable wrench, unbolt the mounting hardware that holds the faucet to the sink deck. This is where a basin wrench earns its cost — it lets you reach bolts in a space too tight for a regular wrench. If you do not have one, you can rent one from a hardware store for a few dollars.

Once the bolts are loose, lift the old faucet out from the top. You may need to wiggle it or apply gentle pressure. Do not force it — if it is stuck, check that you have loosened all the bolts and connections. Once it is out, clean the sink deck with a cloth. Remove old caulk or sealant with a plastic scraper; do not use a metal one, as it can scratch the sink.

Install the new faucet and reconnect the lines

Read the instructions that came with your new faucet. Most faucets come with a rubber gasket or mounting ring that goes on the underside of the deck first. Position the faucet from the top, thread the bolts through from underneath, and tighten them hand-tight first. Then use your wrench to tighten them fully, but do not over-tighten — you can crack the sink deck or strip the bolts.

Reconnect the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet. The hot line usually goes on the left, cold on the right, but check your faucet's instructions. Hand-tighten the nuts first, then use your wrench to snug them. They should be tight enough that water does not leak, but not so tight that you have to strain to turn them.

If your faucet has a sprayer hose, thread it through the hole in the sink deck and connect it to the faucet body according to the instructions. Some faucets have a weight that hangs on the hose inside the cabinet — make sure this is in place.

Test for leaks and seal the deck if needed

Turn the shutoff valves back on by turning them counterclockwise. Turn on the faucet and let it run for a minute. Check all the connections you just made — under the sink, at the supply lines, and at the drain — for any drips or leaks. If you see water, turn the valves back off and tighten the connection slightly. Wait a few minutes and check again.

Once you are certain there are no leaks, you can apply caulk around the base of the faucet where it meets the sink deck, if the old faucet had caulk there. Use a silicone caulk rated for kitchens. This is optional — it prevents water from running under the faucet — but it makes the installation look finished. Let the caulk cure for 24 hours before you use the sink heavily.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the shutoff valves under the sink do not work?

Turn off the main water valve to the house. This is usually in the basement, crawlspace, or outside near the meter. Once the main is off, you can work on the faucet. After you finish, have a plumber replace those shutoff valves — they should not be ignored, as you will need them for future repairs.

Can I install a faucet with a different number of holes than my old one?

If your new faucet needs fewer holes than your sink has, you can cover the extra holes with decorative caps or a sink deck plate. If it needs more holes, you cannot drill new ones yourself — you would need a plumber with a hole saw. Check the faucet specifications before you buy to make sure it fits your sink.

What if I cannot get the old faucet bolts to loosen?

Spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Try again gently. If they still will not budge, stop — forcing them can crack the sink or strip the bolt. Call a plumber at this point rather than risk damage that costs more to fix than the labor would have.

Do I need to use plumber's tape on the supply line connections?

Most modern faucets and supply lines have rubber washers built in, so tape is not necessary. If you see a metal threaded connection without a washer, wrap the threads with plumber's tape (also called thread seal tape) before connecting it. This prevents leaks at the joint.

How long does the caulk need to cure before I can use the sink?

Silicone caulk typically needs 24 hours to fully cure. You can use the sink gently before then, but avoid heavy water pressure or splashing directly on the caulk. Once 24 hours have passed, the caulk is waterproof and you can use the sink normally.