You can get a credit card once you meet your card issuer's requirements, which typically include being at least 18 years old, having a Social Security number or ITIN, and demonstrating some ability to repay

The exact requirements vary by card issuer and card type. A secured credit card — one backed by a cash deposit you make upfront — has the lowest barriers and is often the easiest first card to get. A standard unsecured card usually requires a credit history, even if it is short or limited. Premium cards with rewards or travel benefits typically require a higher credit score and income.

Age is a hard floor: you must be 18. Income requirements are softer — issuers want proof you can repay, but "income" can include student loans, disability benefits, part-time work, or household income you contribute to. Credit history is the variable that matters most. If you have none, you can still get a card, but it will likely be secured. If you have a short history with on-time payments, you may have access to for standard cards. If you have missed payments or high debt, you may be turned down or offered only a secured card.

Key Takeaways

  • You must be at least 18 years old and have a Social Security number or ITIN to get any credit card.
  • A secured credit card requires a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) and is the easiest option if you have no credit history or poor credit.
  • Standard unsecured cards require some credit history, even if recent and limited, and issuers will check your credit report and score.
  • Income requirements exist but are flexible — issuers count employment income, student loans, disability benefits, and household income you contribute to.
  • Your credit score, payment history, and existing debt matter more than your age or income once you meet the minimum thresholds.

Age and Identity Requirements

You must be at least 18 years old to sign a credit card contract. This is a legal requirement, not a policy choice by individual issuers. If you are under 18, you cannot get a card in your own name, though some banks offer student cards for minors with a parent or guardian as a co-signer or authorized user.

You also need a Social Security number (SSN) or an Individual Taxpayer Identification Number (ITIN). The card issuer will use this to pull your credit report and verify your identity. If you do not have an SSN or ITIN yet, you cannot get a card until you do. Immigrants without work authorization can sometimes get an ITIN from the IRS; check the IRS website for current rules on who qualifies.

Credit History: What Issuers Actually Look For

If you have never had a credit card, loan, or other account that reports to the credit bureaus, you have no credit history. This is called being "credit invisible." Issuers cannot see a track record of how you handle debt, so many will turn you down for a standard card. A secured card is your entry point: you deposit money (usually $200 to $2,500), and the issuer gives you a card with a credit limit equal to your deposit. You use it like a regular card, and your on-time payments build a credit history.

If you have a short credit history — say, six months to two years of on-time payments — you can often get a standard unsecured card, though the credit limit may be low ($300 to $1,000) and the interest rate higher than cards for people with longer histories. If you have missed payments, high debt relative to your credit limits, or a recent default or bankruptcy, you will likely be turned down for standard cards and offered only a secured card, if anything.

The issuer will pull your credit report from one or more of the three major bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) and calculate your credit score. Most issuers use FICO scores, which range from 300 to 850. Cards marketed to people building credit typically require a score of 580 to 650. Standard cards often require 650 to 700. Premium cards usually require 740 or higher. These are not hard cutoffs — an issuer may approve you below the stated range if other factors are strong, or deny you above it if your debt is very high.

Income and Employment Status

Card issuers must verify that you have income to repay what you charge. The amount varies by card and issuer, but there is no single minimum income across the industry. Some cards have no stated minimum; others require $15,000 to $25,000 annually. What matters is that you can show some income, not that it meets a specific threshold.

Income includes more than a paycheck. The issuer will count W-2 employment, self-employment income, investment income, Social Security, disability benefits (SSDI or SSI), unemployment benefits, student loans (counted as income because they support you), alimony or child support you receive, and household income you contribute to. If you are a student with no income, some issuers will count your parents' household income if you live with them. If you are retired, your pension or retirement account distributions count.

You will need to report your income on the application. The issuer may ask for proof — a recent pay stub, tax return, or bank statement — especially if the amount seems inconsistent with your employment status or if you are applying for a high credit limit. If you cannot show income, you will be turned down.

Secured Cards: The Easiest Path When You Have No History

A secured credit card is designed for people building credit from scratch or rebuilding after damage. You open a savings account with the card issuer, deposit money (the amount varies by card, but typically $200 to $2,500), and receive a credit card with a limit equal to your deposit. You use the card to make purchases, pay the bill each month, and the issuer reports your activity to the credit bureaus.

The deposit is not a fee — it stays in your account and earns interest (usually a small amount). It is collateral: if you stop paying your card bill, the issuer can take the money from your savings account. Because the issuer's risk is low, secured cards are much easier to get than unsecured cards. You do not need a credit history, and income requirements are often waived or minimal. You do need to be 18, have an SSN or ITIN, and have the deposit amount available.

After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers will convert your secured card to an unsecured card and return your deposit. Some will not convert automatically — you have to ask. Either way, the on-time payment history you build with a secured card makes it much easier to get standard cards later.

Co-Signers and Authorized Users

If you cannot meet the issuer's requirements on your own, you can ask someone with good credit to co-sign your application. A co-signer is legally responsible for the debt if you do not pay. The issuer will check the co-signer's credit and income, not just yours. If you are approved, both your credit and the co-signer's credit will be affected by how you use the card — on-time payments help both of you, missed payments hurt both of you.

Being an authorized user is different. An authorized user is added to someone else's existing card account and can use the card, but is not legally responsible for the bill. The primary cardholder is responsible. Some issuers report authorized user activity to the credit bureaus, which can help build your credit history. Others do not. If you are considering becoming an authorized user to build credit, ask the issuer whether they report authorized user accounts before you agree.

What Happens After You Are Approved

Once approved, the issuer will set your credit limit — the maximum you can charge on the card. For a first card, this is often $300 to $1,000, even if you have good income. As you use the card responsibly and your credit history grows, issuers will raise your limit over time, sometimes without asking.

Your credit score will drop slightly when you first get the card because the issuer pulls your credit report (a "hard inquiry") and opens a new account. This is normal and temporary. Your score will recover and then improve as you make on-time payments and keep your balance low relative to your credit limit. Do not apply for multiple cards in a short time — each application triggers a hard inquiry, and multiple inquiries in a few months can lower your score and signal to issuers that you are desperate for credit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get a credit card if I have never worked?

Yes, if you have other income. Student loans, disability benefits, Social Security, or household income you contribute to all count. You will need to report the income on your application. If you have no income at all, you cannot get a card in your own name, but you may be able to become an authorized user on someone else's card.

What if I was turned down for a credit card?

The issuer must tell you why — usually a low credit score, no credit history, high existing debt, or missed payments. You can request a free copy of your credit report from annualcreditreport.com to see what the issuer saw. If there are errors, dispute them with the bureau. If your score is low, get a secured card and use it responsibly for 6 to 12 months, then reapply for a standard card.

Does applying for a credit card hurt my credit score?

Yes, but only slightly and temporarily. The issuer's hard inquiry lowers your score by a few points. Your score recovers within a few months. Multiple applications in a short time do more damage, so space out applications by at least a few months if you are applying to several cards.

Can I get a credit card if I have bad credit?

A standard unsecured card will likely turn you down. A secured card is your option. Deposit money, use the card responsibly for 6 to 18 months, and your credit will improve. After that, you can apply for standard cards. Some issuers also offer "credit builder" cards specifically for people with poor credit, though the terms are usually less favorable than secured cards.

What is the difference between a credit card and a debit card?

A debit card draws from money you already have in a bank account. A credit card borrows money from the issuer, which you repay later. Only credit cards build credit history — debit card use is not reported to the credit bureaus. To build credit, you need a credit card, not a debit card.